Chicago Manual of Style

"Long Live McQueen" (2/23/10)

2010-04-01T14:32:00.000-07:00

Not even the threat of record-breaking blizzard conditions could stop the forces of fashion. In the days leading up to the first show at New York Fashion Week in Bryant Park, editors, casting directors, and designers were scrambling to make sure that models and racks of clothes made it to Manhattan before the snow did. Despite inclement weather, the clothes arrived, the models hit the catwalk running, and the show was set to go—that is, until the passing of one designer cast a different kind of cloud over the whole affair.

Superstar British designer Alexander McQueen—a force of nature in his own right—committed suicide on February 10, the eve of his mother’s funeral and the day before the start of New York Fashion Week. McQueen’s death gives us cause to reflect on both his incredible creative legacy and the ugly effects of depression and stress that the fashion industry tries to airbrush away.

A high school dropout, McQueen trained as a tailor on London’s famous Savile Row before entering Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, where he began to hone his style as a master of the macabre. His fall 2007 ready-to-wear collection was inspired by the Salem Witch Trials. When the clothes were presented in Paris, McQueen staged a show with a red and black pentagram traced in sand accompanying a film featuring swarms of locusts and faces decaying to skulls. Another collection was based on Hitchcock’s “The Birds,” and yet another was shown in the dungeon that held Marie Antoinette before her execution. McQueen’s bold fascination with morbid themes and dark psychology earned him the nickname enfant terrible, along with the admiration of fashion editors worldwide.

Though most of his eccentric concoctions were entirely unwearable, it didn’t stop his designs from becoming iconic. McQueen’s precarious ten-inch stilettos, bedazzled and shaped like lobster claws, were donned by outrageous chanteuse Lady Gaga in her music video for “Bad Romance.” The massive booties, which debuted last October in McQueen’s spring 2010 show, look like hooves, and no one but Gaga could stomp around in them without twisting an ankle. Another pair of shoes from the show was reminiscent of the eerie, organic designs of Spanish architect Antoni Gaudí. Like Gaudí’s apartment balconies that resemble gaping jaws, McQueen’s shoes look like they’re about to gnaw on the models’ toes. McQueen’s ability to fuse the fearsome, fantastical, and fabulous was always fashion-forward.

In addition to these over-the-top couture items, some of McQueen’s designs did have mass-market appeal. His skull print chiffon scarves—a morbid take on florals—managed to be dainty and dark, girly and ghoulish. Coveted by celebrities like Lindsay Lohan, Nicole Ritchie, Mary Kate Olsen, and Kate Moss, the rocker-chic scarves retail for $200–$395. Low-cost alternatives abound, however: I plucked my $5 version out of an overflowing bin in New York’s Chinatown.

Like many of today’s highly visible figures in fashion, McQueen was an avid Twitter user. He used the site to air some personal demons, and his updates in the days leading up to his suicide revealed that his mother’s death was deeply troubling for him. Sadly, McQueen’s downward spiral is the second to shock the fashion world in recent months. Daul Kim, a 20-year-old South Korean model and fashion-world darling, killed herself in November. Like McQueen, Kim also used high-traffic Internet sites as spots to vent her frustration and despair. In the weeks prior to her death, Kim had posted ominous updates on her blog, where she wrote that she felt “mad depressed” and “like a ghost.” In recent years, other models have died as a result of their psychological struggles, including two from the complications of anorexia: 22-year-old Uruguayan model Luisel Ramos in 2006, and 21-year-old Brazilian beauty Ana Carolina Reston earlier this month.

It’s no surprise that fashion is not all frivolous fun, but these recent deaths suggest that the fashion industry has a problem that must be addressed. With any luck, these terrible losses will spark some serious discussion about how to help models and designers suffering from depression or similar afflictions. When McQueen died, the world lost a brilliant, exciting, irreverent designer whose shows were theatrical spectacles and whose masterfully crafted ensembles were like pieces of performance art. He will be missed for his impeccable technical gifts, daring creativity, and unparalleled ability to turn the disturbing or stigmatized into high-drama, show-stopping, jaw-dropping work. In the words of one writer quoted by ABC News, “Long live McQueen!”

(photo of McQueen AW 2009 from Zimbio)

"Hunting for Vintage with AvantGaudy" (2/2/10)

2010-04-01T14:29:00.000-07:00

Thrifting isn’t an activity for those afraid to get their hands dirty. Though there’s a definite thrill in searching for buried treasures hidden in boxes overflowing with vintage clothes, accessories, and photographs, thrift stores are often dusty, musty, crowded, and disorganized. If you hardly have time in the morning to throw together an ensemble of stained cords and a wrinkled button-down, you might not have what it takes to sift through piles of sometimes-smelly stuff. When you do stumble across a can’t-live-without-it item, you have to make sure that it’s not irreparably stained or ripped. Then, once you get it home, you have to carefully wash out layers of caked dust and a few decades worth of funk. Although I love the eco-friendliness of thrifting—better to buy old clothes than to support the energy-guzzling mass production of new ones—and like to imagine the clothes’ history, I don’t enjoy the hands-on aspect of thrifting.

“Looking at a thrift store is overwhelming and time-intensive,” says Deborah Umunnabuike, a fourth-year in the College and co-founder of the Internet vintage fashion emporium Avant Gaudy. Her useful Web site, which she started with her sister Jessica in the summer of 2005, stocks high-quality, fashion-forward vintage items, solving all of my thrifting conundrums. On buying trips throughout Chicago and the rest of the Midwest, AG staffers wade through rack after rack of vintage goods and handpick chic pieces in runway-ready condition. The clothes are awesomely outlandish pieces, which Umunnabuike describes as “avant-garde sensibility for the new guard,” and are targeted to hip teens and twenty-somethings with a strong sense of personal style.

As Avant Gaudy’s success suggests, vintage clothes are anything but outmoded. Avant Gaudy staff scours blogs, pores over fashion magazines, and scouts merchandise at various clothing stores in order to forecast emerging trends. “We look at publications like Women’s Wear Daily to look at what colors and styles will be popular for the coming season,” says Umunnabuike. “References in fashion designers’ collections help us figure out what will be important next season, which in turn tells us what we need to be looking for,” she added. Last summer, the company hosted an internship program where merchandise buyers searched for vintage items that reflected the ’80s glam aesthetic reintroduced by contemporary designers like Marc Jacobs and Christophe Decarnin. To capitalize on the ’80s homage taking the contemporary runways by storm, Avant Gaudy stocked short dresses, sequined pieces, and sky-high shoulder pads, all of which they were able to sell successfully this fall.

However, there’s a fine line between looking chic and looking crazy, so in addition to their online store, Avant Gaudy also features a blog that shows customers how to prevent their ensembles from appearing costume-y. “Most people aspire to look great, but aren’t fashionistas. The blog is a mouthpiece for advertising, but also shows people how they can wear current trends in an accessible way, like by taming down crazy dresses with tailored blazers or sweaters,” says Umunnabuike.

Umunnabuike, a political science major, believes that there’s an overlap between her academic work and entrepreneurial endeavors. The ability to prioritize, think critically, and effectively manage her time, which have become crucial as she works on her B.A. paper about black youth and music, are also important in the business world. “At the U of C, you’re taught to analyze a situation, figure out what’s important, and ask questions. That’s the kind of thinking you need to run a business,” says Umunnabuike. The resources and networking opportunities at CAPS and the Booth School of Business, where she had temporary office space last summer and had the opportunity to seek mentors, helped Umunnabuike get her footing in the fashion world. Whether working on a midterm or selecting items from Avant Gaudy’s 500-piece inventory to feature on the company’s web site, the skills she has honed at U of C have served Umunnabuike well.

As graduation rapidly approaches, Umunnabuike has stepped down from her position as CEO. Though she’s still involved with operations in a consulting capacity, the company is now helmed by Marife Nellas, a recent college grad from Creighton in Nebraska. Umunnabuike has her sights set on future entrepreneurial opportunities, but wants to take some time after graduation to hone new skills. “I caught the entrepreneurial bug and want to be running my own business long-term, but want to spend some time in [the] corporate world to gain credibility and experience,” she says. Whether she’s running her own business or revitalizing pre-existing brands, this stylish girl is poised to take the fashion world by storm.

(photo from Avantgaudy.com)

"Blogs" (1/26/10)

2010-04-01T14:25:00.001-07:00

With advertisers still running for the hills and publishers continuing to fold, it seems that textbook-sized fashion magazines are a thing of the past. Although you can no longer lug around a backbreaking Vogue, new media makes it easier than ever to get your daily dose of fashion. Here are some of my favorite places to log on and get connected to the fashion world.

Go Fug Yourself

This blog is penned by Heather and Jessica, a dynamic duo with a keen eye and sharp wit. Responsible for introducing a new variation of the “F word” to the cultural lexicon, the girls lampoon starlets and celebutantes who go about town looking “fantastically ugly,” or some more explicit variant thereof. The writers, who also contribute to New York Magazine, take devilish delight in pointing out can’t-look-away disasters where celebrity stylists clearly fell asleep at the wheel. The blog is part celebration, part censure of sartorial calamities. My favorite features include the imagined dialogues between celebrities, especially the incoherent mutterings of designer Karl Lagerfeld (“Kaiser Karl”), who reminds readers that “Humor is the crutch of the plain, pet. BE GORGEOUS.” Fugly regular Aubrey O’Day, who skyrocketed to C-list celebrity after appearing on a season of P. Diddy’s Making the Band, also never fails to disappoint with retina-scarring selections that look like a stew of neon colors and couch-cushion patterns, seasoned with a splash of saloon.

The Sartorialist

Scott Schuman is a globetrotting photographer on the style prowl. Schuman, a regular contributor to GQ, snaps great shots of stylish people all over the world, from suntanned surfers on Australian shores, to heavy-lidded hipsters in Manhattan’s Lower East Side and petite Parisian women in diaphanous dresses and sky-high heels. All of the photographs are beautifully composed, saturated with color and sunlight, featuring men and women for whom style is a sixth sense. The best images are ones of elegant, aging Italian men in Milan, who pair perfectly tailored trousers with slightly scuffed shoes and look effortlessly bello. Schuman alternates between profiling fashion insiders, like models, editors, and designers, and sharing snapshots of creatively-coiffed students, accountants, and entrepreneurs. Though most of Schuman’s subjects, especially the female ones, adhere to a very conventional definition of beauty, the images do attest to the fact that one doesn’t have to splurge on the season’s hottest handbag in order to be staggeringly stylish.

Style Rookie

This blog, penned by precocious 13-year-old Tavi Gevinson, makes me feel a little embarrassed about the years I spent watching Keenan and Kel and Clarissa Explains It All. At an age when I was sprawled out on the couch watching Nickeloden, Gevinson has befriended the Rodarte designers and scored a deal to endorse their collection for Target, sat front row at some seriously prestigous fashion shows, and even wrote a piece for Harper’s Bazaar. While her commentary sometimes borders on breathless idolatry, she’s got an encyclopedic knowledge of fashion and an infectious enthusiasm for an industry in which so many people seem jaded and apathetic. Elle editor Anne Slowey dismissed Gevinson as a novelty and wondered whether the “tween savant” actually writes her own freelance work, but I think she should get some rousing high-fives for her initiative and work ethic. She’ll grow into more sophisticated prose, but her blog is smart, interesting, and full of great observations and news about designers, campaigns, and shows. As a bonus, I can try to relive my teen years vicariously through Gevinson, who is far more self-assured, passionate, and eloquent than I was at her age.

When it comes to blogs, I’m a bit of a dilettante. For a while I penned People Without Pants, a chronicle of my daily misadventures on the New York City public transportation system, where flashers and urinators strike without warning. Then, I wrote Shabulous, an ode to everything “Shabby and Fabulous,” where I waxed poetic about salvaging furniture from the garbage heap and cleaning it up with a little sweat and sandpaper. I stopped writing when I realized I had neither the ideas nor the stamina to keep it up. Thankfully, these writers have a seemingly neverending supply of insight, ideas, commentary, and criticism that illuminate the fashion world. So if you’re fed up with Facebook or need to get off of Gmail, browse some fashion blogs and download some style savvy.

(Photo by Tavi Gevinson, thestylerookie.blogspot.com)

"Cupcake Crawl" (08/25/09)

2010-01-21T13:26:00.001-08:00

I don’t have the drinking endurance to handle a bar crawl, so when my friends get dolled up for a night of club-hopping, I curl up for a night on the couch. I might not be able to handle my liquor, but I’ve got the sweet tooth of a champion. My taste buds lead me right to the cupcake.

Cupcakes are having a major cultural moment: since super-chic Carrie Bradshaw nibbled on morsels from New York’s swanky Magnolia Bakery on Sex and the City, cupcakes have gone from childhood birthday party fare to a sophisticated culinary trend. Once relegated to grocery stores and cake shops, cupcakes are now staples of any corner bakery, and many bakeries are devoted entirely to the dessert. While my friends slept off their night on the town, I embarked on a cupcake crawl that took me around Chicago in search of the best the city’s got to offer. Here, my two favorites:

My first stop was More (1 E. Delaware Place), a couture cupcake shop in the river north neighborhood. With succulent sweet and savory flavors like lemon meringue and bacon maple, More is a spot for the discerning dessert-eater. The lemon meringue cupcake came with perfectly-formed tufts of fluffy meringue and a lemon-filled center. With its white interior and crisp light installations, this bakery has a chic, boutique feel. The fancy flavors like peach bacon bbq, blueberry acai, and salted caramel classify these cakes as haute cuisine, and the deliciously-sweet cupcakes definitely left me wanting More.

Next, I trekked to Lincoln Park to hit Swirlz (705 W. Belden), where I got a cupcake that totally justified the long CTA trip. Daily options include vanilla, chocolate, and the mouth-wateringly delicious red velvet, made with buttermilk, cocoa, and cream cheese frosting. Swirlz has options for various dietary needs, including those with vegan or gluten-free diets. Every day, there are different gluten-free and vegan options, including vegan chocolate-peanut butter and gluten-free banana cream cheese. In addition to cupcakes to accommodate these diets, the bakery also has fare for patrons’ four-legged friends. If your canine has a carb craving, give him a Pupcake, a bite-sized cupcake made just for Fido.

Embrace the cupcake trend and take a bite out of some of the tastiest deserts in town.

(This piece originally appeared on the Avant Gaudy blog, www.avantgaudy.wordpress.com)

"So P.O.S.H." (08/19/09)

2010-01-21T13:23:00.000-08:00

I passionately believe that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and it doesn’t count unless it’s warm, filling, and piled high. That’s why I’m enamored with these cheeky mugs emblazoned with the phrase, “Pancakes Make People Happy” ($8). They make me reminisce about lazy Sunday-morning brunches at my favorite greasy-spoon diner, where I’d dive mouth-first into a buttery short-stack. These days, I’m always eating on the run, but I’m happy to gulp down a big drink of nostalgia.

Whether looking for charming diner-staples like these mugs or for slightly classier-fare, thrifty shoppers should flock to P.O.S.H., a well-edited vintage home-goods boutique for nesters who don’t want to skimp on style.

The affordable housewares and eclectic goods are culled from restaurant warehouses and flea markets in the U.S. and Europe. The store stocks plates, bowls, mugs, tea services, and glassware in a variety of patterns, attracting buyers looking for anything from classy to kitsch. Some delicate floral patterns seem straight out of a bucolic English bed-and-breakfast, while other understated pieces in monochromatic palettes would be at home in a chic Parisian bistro. Other pieces are full of whimsy, such as a cheerful creamer decorated with an accordion-playing gnome.

With many adorable items under $10 and $20, P.O.S.H. is ideal for shoppers who want to give their kitchen a cosmopolitan flair on a college student’s budget.

P.O.S.H.
613 N. State St.
Chicago, IL
312.280.1602

(This piece originally appeared on the Avant Gaudy blog: www.avantgaudy.wordpress.com)

"Style Prowl" (11/10/09)

2010-01-21T13:07:00.000-08:00

Although many University of Chicago students spend more time with vectors than with Vogue, brainiacs can dress smart, too. This week, I profiled some students who earn an “A” in style. They were even helpful enough to provide tips on how you can also make the grade on a student budget.

Amulya Mandava, fourth-year

The outfit: Boots from Chinese Laundry, H&M cardigan, earrings and silk scarf from India

Budget-friendly tip: “To make your shoes last longer, get them re-soled. Try Mr. T.’s Shoe Repair on 53rd, between Greenwood and Ellis. Also, don’t fall into the trap of buying something just because it’s on sale. You should never buy something that doesn’t really fit you, no matter how cheap it is.”

Whether curling up for an all-night library session or getting decked out for a night on the town, Amulya always manages to look comfortable, chic, and confident. She attributes her fashion fluency to dressing for her body type, without regard for other people’s expectations. “I wear a lot of layers and high-waisted skirts and pants because they flatter my figure,” she said. She often swaddles herself in cozy shawls and oversized cardigans, meaning she sometimes feels as though she dresses like someone twice her age. “I dress like a lot of older or middle-aged women. Women at that age are good at expressing a powerful femininity while dressing for themselves, instead of trying to project a specific kind of image,” she added. For Amulya, getting dressed in the morning is more than finding clean clothes or putting together an outfit that matches—it’s about dressing for who you are and who you want to be. She finds that dressing well helps her feel invigorated and prepared to conquer any challenges. “Fashion gives me a sense of stepping out of the house with faith in my day, and with the confidence to face anything,” she said.

Patrick Gallagher, first-year

The outfit: Cardigan and shoes from Urban Outfitters, pipe jeans from Levi’s

Budget-friendly tip: “When you’re going shopping, have a plan. Don’t just go browse aimlessly—you’ll end up spending a lot more money than you mean to.”

Patrick’s dressed-down take on men’s suiting is casually chic. “I like layers, which are the basis of men’s dress clothes,” he said. Here, he plays with suit-inspired pieces like the cardigan, cut to resemble a men’s blazer, and suede shoes that reference timeless wing-tips. He keeps the look youthful and fashion-forward by pairing the pieces with low-key Levis and choosing a cardigan with interesting detailing, like wooden buttons.

Liz Baker-Steimer, second-year

The outfit: Boots from Steve Madden, blazer from Unique, vintage Banana Republic skirt, silk scarf from France

Budget-friendly tip: “Check out Unique, a chain of vintage stores with shops on the North Side. Everything is half-off on Mondays!”

Though she looks right at home in well-tailored woolen pieces like this skirt and blazer, Liz says that her personal style is still under construction. “My look is always evolving as I get more exposure to different styles,” she said. Since she’s an avid traveler, Liz is constantly finding new fashion inspirations. “I’ve done a lot of shopping in France, so my outfits often have a European flair,” she said. Liz’s ensemble is a great example of how an accessory—in this case, a silk scarf—can add a little je ne sais quoi to an outfit.

(Photos by Eric Guo for the Chicago Maroon)

"Homemade Halloween" (10/30/09)

2010-01-21T13:05:00.000-08:00

As students, we know that the U of C can be a scary place—we’re haunted by exams, spooked by papers, and terrified of lab reports. School can be chilling every day, and by the time midterms roll around, many of us probably feel that we’ve had our fair share of horror. If you’ve spent more hours hunched over an econ problem set than hunting for a costume, it might be tempting to forgo the freaky festivities this weekend. Still, you shouldn’t let your lack of a costume stop you from having some fun this Halloween. Here are some last-minute costume tips for both the DIY-types and savvy shoppers.

Third-year Emily Graber merged craft and kitsch into one cute costume. Influenced by the adorable animal hats she saw at trendy children’s boutiques in Wicker Park, Graber designed a homemade owl costume. She made textured wings by affixing two different colors of paper towels to a cut-up paper grocery bag. Cut into triangles, the strips of paper flutter like actual feathers, and their slightly matted appearance resembles molting. Graber paired the wings with an adorable hat she crocheted herself, complete with ears, eyes, and a beak to create a critter that is terrifyingly cute.

Graber offered tips for crafting easy, creative homemade costumes. The key is to be ambitious, but within reason. “Think about what resources you already have,” she suggested. Graber designed her costume around the crocheted hat she had been working on and completed the look with brown and tan clothes already hanging in her closet. While creativity is great, sometimes great ideas can be too elaborate to actually make by hand. “Google ideas for handmade costumes, just to see what’s in the realm of possibility,” Graber recommended. If you’re not into gore, think of ideas that are more cuddly than chilling. Graber suggested looking at Halloween costumes made for little kids—like pumpkins, dinosaurs, and other animals—and trying to think of ways they could be adapted for a bigger body.

Sonia Hinson, Maroon news contributor and third-year in the College, is also a fan of homemade Halloween costumes, but discovered that she didn’t have time to make one this year. Instead, she hit the Internet to find a quick, easy, budget-friendly option. Her “Dark Fairy” costume, which she scored for $17.99 on Kmart.com, puts a macabre twist on the conventional, frilly fairy outfit. Hinson paired the dress, wings, wand, and glittery shoulder pads with Converse sneakers and ripped tights for a fashion-forward look that capitalizes on current high-fashion trends, like '80s glam rock.

Hinson also offered some helpful hints for finding a pre-made costume right before the witching hour. “If you already know what kind of costume you’re looking for, use Google Shopping to search for it,” she suggested. The Google Shopping feature lets shoppers sort by price and store, making it easy to track down something very specific. If you don’t want to splurge on overnight shipping, hit one-stop-costume shops like Ragstock (812 West Belmont Avenue). This vintage emporium sells lots of individual costume pieces, from poofy prom dresses to authentic hippie gear, as well as fully packaged costumes, like sexy policewoman outfits, all at very reasonable prices. Shoppers can easily leave with a head-to-toe ensemble that won’t break the bank.

You might still be shaking from midterms, but there’s still time to throw together a costume and go have some Halloween fun. Whether you plan to curl up with a bag of candy and watch Hocus Pocus or get scared to tears at Navy Fear, it’s not too late to make or buy a cute, creative costume. Have a safe and stylish Halloween!

(Illustration by Tom Tian for the Chicago Maroon)

"Fashion Films" (10/27/09)

2010-01-21T13:03:00.000-08:00

As the weather turns dark and damp and leaving my apartment becomes increasingly less appealing, my new guilty pleasure is curling up next to my sputtering radiator with a DVD and a steaming mug of chai tea. I may look more sleepy than chic bundled up in baggy sweats and swaddled in a dingy blanket, but my stylish Netflix queue more than makes up for my slouchy ensemble. Here are my picks for the best feel-good fashion flicks, which let me cheaply indulge my couture curiosity without leaving the comfort of my futon.

Valentino: The Last Emperor

Matt Tyrnauer’s documentary follows the effervescent Italian iconoclast Valentino Garavani as the designer prepares for his final fashion show and huge fete in honor of his 45 years of cutting-edge couture. The impeccably-coiffed, super-tan couturier helmed his own line for more than four decades and dressed some of the world’s most fashionable women, including Jackie O and Elizabeth Taylor. The film ranges from farcical to fanciful, vacillating between portrayals of Valentino as a cranky, crotchety monarch toting five misbehaving pug pups, and as a shy, self-effacing artist. Though the designer seems dictatorial when he chastises his assistants and seamstresses, his self-conscious vulnerability is painfully evident, especially during the moment when he obsessively agonizes over a strand of sequins adorning a show-stopping white evening gown.

The documentary sheds light on the business aspect of the fashion industry by focusing on the designer’s relationship with one-time lover and long-time business partner Giancarlo Giammetti, who was responsible for negotiating the licensing agreements that turned Valentino into a household name.

While viewers won’t really get a sense of the scope and scale of Valentino’s influence on the fashion world, they will be privy to his luxe life, invited into his lavish mansions, and yacht, where he lounges with pals like Gwyenth Paltrow and Elton John. Viewers also get to see the preparations for one of the designer’s final couture shows, a presentation of slinky, sensual evening gowns set amidst painted sand dunes and a romantic setting sun.

My favorite part was the opulent, three-day extravaganza celebrating the decadent emperor’s 45 year rule over the fashion industry. The celebration featured a stunning retrospective at the Ara Pacis museum, a star-studded ball at the Villa Borghese, and a circus-like spectacular at the Temple of Venus, which featured high-wire dancers and a grand fireworks show. Unbeknownst to the guests, the party was one of the last times the emperor would sit on his throne: He retired in 2008.

Seamless

This 2005 documentary by fashion photographer Douglas Keeve follows three finalists in the Vogue-sponsored CFDA Fashion Fund Competition, a contest to mentor and support the next generation of designers.

Doo Ri Chung, Alexandre Plokhov, and the team of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, the boys behind the Proenza Schouler line, are the smart-but-struggling designers looking for their big break. The film emphasizes the designers’ talent, financial troubles, and passion as they show samples of their work and make presentations for an intimidating panel of fashion magnates. This documentary shows that the fashion industry is not all glitz and glamour—even the best and brightest of the designers are struggling to make ends meet, setting up makeshift workshops in their parents’ storage spaces. With these glimpses into the real lives of designers, this touching film emphasizes the importance of nurturing talent both financially and creatively.

The September Issue

R.J. Culter’s documentary permits devoted fashionistas to enter the hallowed halls of the Conde Nast building and watch the creative process behind the September 2007 issue of Vogue. At more than 600 pages, this monster issue was the heftiest fashion magazine to ever hit newsstands.

Vogue’s icy editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, does not come off as megalomaniacal and sneaky as Meryl Streep portrayed her in the thinly-veiled tell-all, The Devil Wears Prada (which was based on the novel penned by one of Wintour’s former assistants). Instead, Wintour, whose tiny frame is comically swallowed by her huge furs and baubles, seems lonely and insecure, as if always afraid that someone will dethrone her and destroy the empire that she has spent tireless years building. Though she’s clearly a competent, decisive, and snarky boss, she sometimes seems to grimace under her big, dark sunglasses, as if running the world’s most famous fashion magazine is a heavier burden than she can bear.

Watch for scene-stealers such as the gentle, Louis-Vuitton-clad giant Andre Leon Talley, the magazine’s flamboyant editor-at-large, and thick-skinned Grace Coddington: the magazine's long-time creative director, in addition to a brilliant, whimsical stylist, and what seems to be the only staff member to stand up to Wintour’s dictums. Talley is hilarious in his monogrammed tennis attire, and Coddington’s enduring passion for her beautiful work is extremely touching.

These three films emphasize the human aspect of an industry known for its ruthlessness. Next time you’re in the mood for a fashion fix without blowing your budget or leaving the comfort of your apartment, cuddle up with a stylish documentary. All of these films offer a behind-the-scenes peek at the inner workings of the fashion world and illuminate the pathos behind the pictures.

(Photo credit: Amulya Mandava)

"The Ugly Side of Fashion" (10/20/09)

2010-01-21T12:53:00.000-08:00

Since coming to the helm of French Vogue eight years ago, editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld hasn’t been afraid to push fashion lovers’ buttons. She’s given the go-ahead on outrageous, provocative pictorials such as an April 2009 spread which featured a glamorously disheveled Lily Donaldson chain smoking while wearing a faux-pregnancy belly and flinging around a baby doll. The magazine has consistently made couture controversial, and the October 2009 issue took that reputation even further.

Steven Klein’s shots of Dutch supermodel Lara Stone painted in blackface ruffled more than a few fashionable feathers. Stone is pictured in turban-style headdresses and imperial-inspired coats as well, which raised eyebrows and outrage among readers who believed these wardrobe decisions have colonialist connotations.

The spread was featured in an issue devoted to “supermodels,” which was devoid of any actual models of color. One has to wonder: Was the shoot just a product of a misguided artistic vision, or something even uglier?

Was it a symptom of the fantasy-driven world of fashion that is blissfully, excruciatingly indifferent to “real world” problems? Even in the midst of a nation-wide recession, many magazines continue to hawk shoes and bags that cost more than my monthly rent. Fashion is always seeking edgier territory and isn’t really known for its sensitivity to class issues. So was this shoot just another instance of editors feverishly trying to keep their magazine interesting, disregarding the sentiments of their readers in the process? Perhaps, however implausibly, the team responsible for the photos was unaware of their racially charged implications. It’s just as possible, though, that the motivation behind the photos is much more troubling.

Maybe the shoot was a perverse way for the editors to use models “of color” without legitimizing non-white forms of beauty. In a recent interview on CNN, former model and current fashion blogger Jenna Sauers spoke eloquently about the pervasive racism in the modeling industry. She talked about attending castings where signs blatantly declared “no black girls today,” and talked about hearing casting directors criticize girls who looked too “ethnic.” Maybe the shoot exemplifies the fashion industry’s discomfort with actual non-white bodies.

If they wanted to play with the idea of painting skin without weighty racial issues, the editors could have experimented with texture. Another photo from the issue features Stone painted to look like marble. The photo plays on artistic conceptions of feminine beauty and the Pygmalion myth of the sculptor whose beloved ivory creation comes to life. This photo was edgy and evoked relevant societal issues without entering offensive racial territory.

The spread is one of a number of recent fashion faux pas. This past September, Harper’s Bazaar referenced the trope of the wild, animalistic black woman when they dressed Naomi Campbell in heavy furs and photographed her jumping rope with monkeys. The colonial safari-themed spread, shot by photographer Jean-Paul Goude, resurrected stereotypical, primitive constructions of black femininity.

The same issue of Harper’s Bazaar also featured a 14-page Harlem Renaissance-inspired pictorial of models Chanel Iman and Arlenis Sosa. The shoot, photographed by Peter Lindbergh, was aesthetically beautiful: The soft, ethereal quality of the images contrasted beautifully with the highly textured tweeds and wools. Yet, while the pictures were lovely, the combined message of the two spreads was pretty ugly—instead of focusing on the contemporary experiences of African-American women, the magazine mined stereotypes and played-out historical tropes. But in an era where there’s a dearth of black models, the question is, are stereotypical portrayals really preferable to no portrayals at all?

All of these mishaps are evidence that, despite the age of Obama, we truly don’t live in a post-racial society. Fashion editors and photographers need to realize that their images, however aesthetically pleasing, don’t exist in a vacuum devoid of cultural and historical meanings. Racism should not be the hot accessory for this fall.

(Photo credits: French Vouge, Harper's Bazaar)

"Penn's Photographic Legacy" (10/13/09)

2010-01-21T12:50:00.000-08:00

A lot goes into a fashion spread. Designers dream up clothes, which are then sewn by a team of nimble seamstresses. Art directors concoct fantastical concepts, like the Alice in Wonderland themed editorial created for Vogue in December 2003. Stylists then craft enviable ensembles from a massive closet full of covetable clothes. Glamorously gangly models perfect the hunch-and-pout, splaying their lanky limbs at sharp angles, while teams of hair and make-up gurus are on hand to perform touch-ups and transform the model from ordinary to otherworldly. All this chaos rages behind the scenes, but it all boils down to one thing: the final image. Ultimately, it’s what the photographer frames and shoots that makes it into the magazine, and timeless fashion photographs are more than the sum of their parts.

The work of photographer Irving Penn is a case in point. Penn, who died on October 7 at age 92, left behind a legacy of stunning photographs that blur the line between still-life, portraiture, and documentary photography, all while emphasizing the elegant construction of well-made clothes.

Penn studied painting at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art before arriving at Vogue in 1943, where he worked under art director Alexander Liberman. When Penn grew disenchanted by the images photographers submitted, Liberman suggested that he take his own. Despite his distaste for the fashion industry, Penn did just that, and with the aplomb that solidified his position as one of the preeminent fashion photographers of the 20th century.

Penn’s first Vogue cover, shot for the October 1943 issue, featured a sumptuous leather satchel and gloves surrounded by textiles and a large print of lemons and oranges on a wood table introducing readers to the his unique use of still-life in fashion photography. Because it lacked the superfluous, decorative adornments so frequently seen in fashion magazines, Penn’s austere cover seemed meticulous and even shockingly clinical. This famous first photograph also reveals Penn’s early education as a painter, playing with depth and scale in a way that references Cubist collage.

When he returned to the magazine after two years of volunteering for the war effort with the American Field Service, Penn turned his attention to portraiture. The photographer snapped images of nearly all of the celebrities of the day, from music greats like Louis Armstrong to literati such as Truman Capote. Penn photographed his subjects in what was affectionately referred to as “Penn’s Corner,” a set of two gray, converging walls; a scene that was bare, save for a textured carpet, wooden chair, or footstool. This monochromatic background, however, allowed the sitters’ faces to take center stage.

Penn seamlessly applied the same strategy to his fashion photography. In 1950, Penn documented the fall couture collections in Paris with a pared-down approach that emphasized the clothes’ craftsmanship and detailing. Penn shot the outfits against a matte gray curtain in his studio, and the juxtaposition of this flat fabric with the heavy, woven textiles and rich fabrics of the garments resulted in a precise, nearly architectural presentation.

Though they appear carefullycrafted, many of Penn’s most famous images are testaments to the power of serendipity. His lovely 1949 photo of model Jean Patchett sitting at a table, dazedly sucking on her necklace and kicking off her shoes, was a candid moment captured on film. For Penn, patience was paramount: After a week with Patchett on location in Peru, the photographer had still not snapped a single photograph—this iconic image was the first photograph of the trip. Penn said it best in the Vogue Book of Fashion Photography: “I was a young man with no knowledge of style, but I knew when an image had guts.” His oeuvre is reassurance that one just needs conviction, not elaborate circumstances, to create great art with serious gusto.

(Photo credit: Irving Penn, 1949)

"Posh Parisians" (10/06/09)

2010-01-21T12:41:00.000-08:00

I spent most of the summer sequestered in the library stumbling through Sontag and by the time September rolled around, I was eager to soak up some sun and some style. I took a whirlwind tour through Europe, where I gorged my stomach on crêpes, pizza, and tapas and feasted my eyes on gorgeous coats, cropped pants, and tote bags. Though I loved sifting through luxurious goods at chic boutiques, I found the best fashion inspiration in a somewhat unexpected place: Not on the well-edited racks of high-end stores or on the bodies of lovely, lanky locals, but in the adorable ensembles of Parisian school children.

I stayed in a little hotel at the corner of Rue Cler and Avenue La Motte Picquet, which was right down the street from an elementary school. I loved watching the kids parade into their building each morning when I popped into a nearby patisserie to pick up a baguette. Despite the language barrier, the kids’ tailored, textured style didn’t get lost in translation. Their school yard staples translate perfectly to a Chicagoan’s fall wardrobe.

Paris is teeming with well-dressed youngsters; there’s even a monthly edition of French Vogue dedicated to the enfants. Their school clothes dramatically upstage the sloppy hoodie and sweats I wore to grade school. Instead, they head to class in cropped patterned trenches, leather bomber jackets, tweed suspenders, pocketed felt vests, and cable-knit cardigans with leather elbow patches.

I channeled school-kid style when I picked up a pair of monogrammed maroon-and-plaid knee socks in the Marais district at the Tabio store, the first Parisian branch of the Japanese specialty hosiery store known for highly-saturated tights, leggings, and socks. The socks will look preppy and polished sticking out above a pair of brown boots, and easy and gamine when paired with flats. I also picked up a cheeky, puppy-patterned silk handkerchief from Arnys, a high-end menswear atelier. I plan to tie it to a purse for a fun, fresh look.

You, too, can emulate the school-yard look without crossing the pond. Head to the Gap for Parisian-inspired shrunken blazers ($98) and cropped capes ($68). Their black and gray rugby peacoat ($128) also references the clean lines and muted color palate of school uniforms. Anthropologie is the place to stock up on 3/4-sleeve blazers that look like little boys’ coats. I’d splurge on the double-breasted Pietra blazer ($118) or the cute, cuffed Ponte Bleu ($98). Forever 21 has some beautiful, budget-conscious options, like the adorable Lady Capelet jacket ($34), a short-sleeved, gray pleated jacket accented with a bow.

Take a hint from French school children and earn an “A” in style when you update your fall wardrobe with Parisian-inspired fashions and a little je ne sais quoi.

(Photo credit: Vogue Enfants, 2009)

"Randolph Street Market" (9/22/09)

2010-01-21T12:31:00.000-08:00

Once a month during the Chicago summer, the Randolph Street Market District becomes the site of an open-air market that recalls the overflowing bazaars of Paris’s Rue Cler district or London’s funky Portobello Road. Shoppers looking to score bargains on everything from vintage dresses to refurbished dressers flock to the Chicago Antique Market, where they scour for steals. Described by the staff as an “urban treasure hunt,” this market is the place to mine for vintage gems on a student’s budget.

Now in its fifth year, the Chicago Antique Market is anything but old-fashioned. In place of stodgy collectors, the market’s 175+ vendors attract a hip crowd that browses for chic, tailored trench coats and kitschy kitchen utensils. Fashionistas flock to the adjoining Indie Designer Market, which takes place in the Plumbers’ Hall building. There, up-and-coming and established independent designers sell their wares, including intricate belt buckles from Heroine Chic and the versatile 10-Way Wrap from Cuff Love, a chic shawl to help transition from balmy summer to the blistering Chicago winter.

Though some items are out of a student’s price range (like an elegant wrought-iron table and chairs reminiscent of a Parisian cafe) or over-the-top kitschy (such as giant amusement park signs), many of the sellers’ goods are as affordable as they are beautiful. I excavated some serious treasure during my trips to the Market this summer. On my first trip, I strolled from stall to stall and purchased bags of beautiful vintage buttons and handfuls of old photographs.

On my next visit, I picked up a delicate butterfly preserved under a piece of convex glass, and got an amazing deal on some pretty china dessert plates (4 for $2!).

Every month, Market visitors can also treat their taste buds to sweet or savory morsels at the accompanying outdoor Fancy Foods Market, where local restaurants and bakeries come to sell bite-sized snacks. Grab a lemonade and a cookie to fuel up for a day of intense browsing and bargaining. You’ll need some energy to spot great pieces and haggle on prices.

The last market weekend of the season will be September 26-27. Stop by to browse anytime between 10-5 on Saturday or 10-4 on Sunday. To get there, take the Green Line to the Ashland stop, or pick up a free, round-trip trolley from Water Tower Place. Trolleys leave Water Tower Place on the hour between 11-3, and depart from the Market on the half-hour. General admission is $10, and students get in for $5 with valid I.D.

Hopefully, searching for vintage treasure will become a Chicago tradition akin to music festivals and outdoor movies in Grant Park. This weekend, sail over to the Chicago Antique Market to hunt for some antique finds of your own.

"Beach Bodies" (05/22/09)

2009-07-02T13:31:00.000-07:00

Summer is not a good season to be a tabloid junkie. While I love gobbling up all the gossip about Brangelina’s ever-expanding brood, I could do without the dozens of glossy pages depicting the best and worst “beach bodies.” Everybody and every body gets panned, from the too slender (Whitney Port) to the too rotund (Angelica Huston, who is still svelte at almost-sixty).

This week, Star harassed everyone who bared it on the beach, from waif-like reality star Whitney Port to super-muscular tennis star Serena Williams. When even the most toned bodies are being criticized for the smallest patch of cellulite, it’s tempting to keep my much-more-ample figure fully clothed. But the size and shape of your body matters a lot less than the size and shape of your suit. If you pick a suit that suits your body, there’s no reason not to feel comfortable on the beach this summer.

Even if you’re years out of high school, go nostalgic and order a suit from Delia’s, the teen emporium. The catalog-and-web site company offers a wide variety of suits for diverse body types. Mix-and-match suits allow you to go skimpy on the bottom and supportive on top. Tall girls can pick out pretty suits made to fit long torsos. Best of all, most styles come in sizes XS–XL. After a traumatic top-losing incident a few summers ago, I am a proponent of one-piece styles. This year, I’m hoping to get the Black-and-White Boy Short One-Piece, which is a halter-top suit with a built-in shelf bra and modest leg line ($44). The classic silhouette reminds me of iconic twentieth-century glamazons like Marilyn Monroe. It’s playful and sexy and provides enough coverage to make me feel comfortable.

Victoria’s Secret also sells sexy swimwear, and despite its reputation for catering only to bodacious beauties, anybody can be beach-ready in one of their numerous cuts of swimsuits. In addition to barely-there bikinis, the company makes tankinis, one-pieces, and monokinis (cut-out one-pieces). Busty bathers can get all the coverage they need in tops in D–DD. Modest, slimming one-pieces are stylish with ruching detailing. Bikini sets start at $29, and mix-and-match separates start at $15.

For high-end beachwear, fashionistas head to Everything But Water, a one-stop swim shop that features suits by eminent clothing labels like Betsey Johnson, Kenneth Cole, and Michael Kors. The suits come in figure-flattering cuts like boy-cut and skirted bottoms for those who would rather keep their lower body under wraps. One-piece styles even come in boat-neck versions, which elongate short torsos or hide upper-body stretch marks. While I don’t think anyone should be encouraged to hide their (highly subjective) physical “flaws,” I commend these brands for making suits intended to make women feel most comfortable.

If you’re not excited to bare all on the beach, another alternative is to throw on a cute cover-up. Beachwear doesn’t have to consist of big, bleached T-shirts. J.Crew has an entire line devoted to cute beach cover-ups that can go from shore to store. Light-colored linen pants are lightweight and crisp, and when paired with a black cami, chunky wooden necklace, and simple leather sandals, are effortless and elegant ($48). Forever 21 has cheap and chic maxi dresses in batik prints adorned with beads, which capitalize on the safari trend ($18–$24).

I wish I could bring myself to put the tabloids away until fall, but I won’t—what if Brangelina adopts another baby in the interim? Instead, I’ll try to ignore all of the body-snarking (honestly, I dream of looking as great as Angelica Huston at 57), and remember that a body-conscious swimsuit can make any day a trip to the beach.

Photo credit: Photo of Jordan Dexter and Alex Long by Shahzad Ahsan, The Maroon

"Sizing Up Fashion's Fascination with the Petite" (05/12/09)

2009-07-02T13:29:00.000-07:00

It’s no secret that fashion is obsessed with the miniature, such as waif-like models and short shorts with a half-inch inseam. However, on Saturday night, students who gathered in Hutch Courtyard to celebrate the beginning of the Festival of the Arts (FOTA) were greeted by a larger-than-life fashionable figure: “Gigantic Fashion,” a monumental eleven-foot dress designed by fourth-year Michal Lynn Shumate.

Shumate’s gargantuan garment was inspired by her knowledge of fashion’s love of the tiny. An art history major, Shumate just completed a thesis paper about fashion installations in which she discussed the House of Victor and Rolf’s presentation of their most famous designs on porcelain dolls in a gigantic doll house.

Also curious about fashion’s caricature of the large and ostentatious, such as enormous hoop skirts and opulent headdresses, Shumate wondered how dramatic changes in scale would affect the perception and reception of a garment. Clearly, when it comes to fashion, size matters. “Clothes are supposed to be worn. It’s not a painting,” Shumate pointed out. Generally, viewers are able to imagine themselves in the clothes because the items are scaled to the (granted, unrealistic and idealized) proportions of the human body. Shumate was curious about what happens to a viewer’s perception of clothes when the items are so clearly unwearable and fantastical.

Shumate’s enormous dress required Herculean effort to make. The circumference of the dress’s large skirt measures 20.6 yards, and the whole outfit required more than 42 yards of fabric. The project required 50 hours of sewing, almost three times as long as it took Shumate, who has designed for FOTA and MODA fashion shows before, to create human-sized ensembles. While constructing the dress was extremely time-intensive, Shumate faced other difficulties as well. “Working on the project was difficult because every time I wanted to work on it, I had to find a space large enough to accommodate all of the fabric,” she said. “If I wanted to spread out the fabric, I had to have a room-sized space.”

Working on the dress presented the problem of how to maintain a high level of craftsmanship while working on such a large scale. “Quite a bit of math was involved,” Shumate said. “I had to make X and Y-axes to figure out where to put things, and had to plot points along the edge of the pattern.”

Once the dress was finished, Shumate faced the trying task of figuring out how to display her mega-sized project. Fourth-year Katherine Greenleaf, who works as a scenic designer for University Theater, designed and constructed a structure to hold up and stabilize the garment. The dress is displayed on an adapted human frame constructed out of a lumber box, plastic bags, and a rough armature of a bust and torso to create the allusion of an hourglass shape. The faux-hoop skirt is made from rubber tubing.

Perhaps the most nerve-wracking aspect of the production was its final phase—installation in Hutch Courtyard. Because of the space limitations imposed by the garment’s size, Shumate had never seen her creation in its standing position until the end of the seven-hour installation process. “It was too tall to erect in the studio where I was working,” she said. “I knew that the measurements should be right, but I wasn’t positive everything would come together.”

Despite the stressful situation, Shumate kept calm, which was a welcome change for a designer accustomed to anxiety before a show. “The experience was much different from doing a fashion show, because my nerves eased up as the project went on,” she said. “With a fashion show, I’m too nauseous and nervous to eat the day of, and it takes a full day to recover. Once I started installing [the dress] and realized that it could be done, I relaxed.”

Shumate says that one of the biggest challenges she faces as a designer is combating the accusation that fashion is either “frivolous, or stuffy and boring.” With her intelligent, immense project, Shumate proves that big style and big smarts create big, beautiful results.

Photo credit: Tom Tian, The Maroon

"Trash and Treasure" (05/05/09)

2009-07-02T13:24:00.000-07:00

Last summer, scavenging for curbside treasures became part of my morning routine. The loft I sublet in New York’s Union Square neighborhood happened to be right next to a theater company. Every morning as I strolled down the street to get my breakfast bagel, I would stop to check out their dumpster. The theater was doing a huge renovation and was tossing out some gorgeous seats and parts of old sets. My roommate and I salvaged some of the choice pieces, which were slightly flawed but far too appealing to be left in the trash heap. Our finds were “shabulous”—the perfect combination of shabby and fabulous.

Unfortunately, shipping some of the items back to Chicago was out of the question, and I had to leave them behind. However, upon coming back, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there is plenty of awesome abandoned furniture to be saved right here in Hyde Park. May and June are major months for yard sales, which means great deals for students shopping on a budget. Here are some tips for rescuing furniture from the refuse pile.

Sleep in and Score:

Hawkeyed early birds will rise at the crack of dawn to bag the best items, but these early finds will be out of a student’s price range anyway. Go later in the day when the pickings are slimmer and the prices lower. As the sale winds down, sellers who don’t want to drag the unsold merchandise back inside will often lower the price to get it off their hands. If you arrive right at the end of the sale, some items may be discarded and up for grabs. Last spring, my roommate and I picked up a massive leather couch, an antique secretary desk, a computer table, and a chest of drawers, all of which we got for free at the end of yard sales. These unsold items may be a little rough around the edges, but with a little T.L.C., you can get them back in shape.

Pile on the Paint:

Take a trashed table from shabby to chic with a fresh coat of paint. When refurbishing a table or desk, it’s easier to go for a darker rather than lighter color because you can useW less paint. A coat of matte or glossy black paint can lend contemporary sophistication to a simple silhouette, such as a bold square end table. If you are reluctant to paint the entire piece of furniture, think about sprucing up the surface with some stencils. Affordable stencil patterns are available at any craft store, such as Blick on State Street.

You could also create a personalized keepsake by using decoupage to affix photographs, postcards, or drawings to the furniture’s surface. My distressed old desk got a facelift when I covered the surface with beautiful postcards my friends and family had sent me from their trips around the world. Decoupage is a more permanent technique than painting: You can’t paint over it, and it’s difficult to get the items off. However, it’s the quickest, easiest, and least messy way to take your furniture from battered to beautiful.

Add Drama with Drawer Pulls:

Don’t leave an item behind because it’s missing drawer handles or knobs. Instead, take the opportunity to bring an outmoded piece up-to-date with stylish decorative knobs. When I worked at Anthropologie, I swooned over the delicate porcelain knobs with dainty floral patterns. Even if the item you rescue from the garbage heap has its knobs intact, think about switching them out in order to make the piece fit with the rest of your furniture.

Things to Avoid:

In order to score a great piece of furniture, you’ve got to do a little detective work. Be wary of suspicious smells—no matter how heavily you Febreze a piece of furniture, if it reeks when you buy it, it will stink up your apartment. Similarly, if you’re scoring a piece of furniture you found lying out on the street, examine it for water stains; it may have gotten wet and become moldy.

As the adage says, one person’s trash is another person’s treasure. With these tips, you’ll be prepared to take your loot from dilapidated to dreamy. Happy hunting!

"Fashion and the Less-Fair Sex" (04/28/09)

2009-07-02T13:22:00.000-07:00

There’s a question that’s been bothering me ever since President Obama was criticized by some conservative circles for sitting at his desk in the Oval Office without a suit jacket: What are the standards for men’s fashion? For me, the question becomes even more mind-boggling when it comes to dressing for spring and summer temperatures. Sure, men can go shirtless and wear jean shorts and flip-flops. But should they?

Fashion-forward women know that new trends spring up each season. Wearing last year’s tough gladiator sandals with this year’s demure Liberty print floral dresses is a faux pas. While I know how to forecast seasonal trends for women, I’m totally clueless when it comes to guessing how men should dress for the warmer weather. I turned to stylish third-year Sam Chereskin to help lay down some ground rules for looking cool as the weather warms up.

I’m an advocate of eschewing seasonal trends in favor of creating a personal style. The guys seem to be with me on this one. Chereskin points out that while the style of women’s clothing changes every season with fleeting trends, men’s style is consistently based around a set of timeless styles and cuts. “Usually, seasonal iterations by designers only reflect variations on a theme,” Chereskin says. He favors brands like Kenneth Cole and Calvin Klein, who both produce tailored, tried-and-true staples that can be mixed and matched to create a look that marries casual comfort with elegance.

Summer is synonymous with sandals, but flip-flops can’t go from beach to boardroom. While they’re totally acceptable when you’re lounging outside, sandals look totally out of place when you’re leading a presentation. If you’re wearing a dress shirt and pants, you’re too dressed up to be wearing flip-flops. If you work in a creative environment where employees dress down in jeans and T-shirts, you might be able to pull off simple Havaianas in basic black. Otherwise, go conservative in leather loafers and super-low socks.

Even if you know where to wear sandals, you still face the considerable problem of figuring out how to wear them. There is no scenario in which the combination of socks and sandals is anything other than a misstep. As Chris Rovy, fashion correspondent for the style-savvy website AskMen.com, points out, the point of wearing sandals is to air our your feet after a long, sweaty, stinky winter of being shoved into thick socks.

On a scorching summer day, it’s tempting to want to show some skin. When it comes to shorts, how short is too short? Don’t flash any thigh. “Almost all men’s shorts options, I think, exist in a two-inch margin of error around the knee. I tend to wear shorts at it or above it,” Chereskin says. Calf-length shorts look sophomoric and skater-boy, rather than sophisticated. Chereskin also suggests that if you’re going to show some leg, you should make sure you’re choosing a classy fabric. Linen or khaki shorts are great options, but “denim shorts are a no on all occasions,” Chereskin says.

To tuck or not to tuck? How do you wear summer shirts without looking sloppy? “Don’t tuck in your t-shirt without an overshirt,” Chereskin says. Tucking in a polo shirt is advisable only at a country club. If you’re not on the golf course, stick to styles that don’t require tucking. Stores like the Gap and Old Navy sell affordable, body-conscious crew neck and v-neck shirts that look polished without looking too preppy. For a sleeker look, you can tuck in a button-down, but “you need a good-looking belt to make it work,” Chereskin says.

While I still don’t fully understand the reasoning that the President needs to be wearing a suit and tie in order to convey respect for the weight of his job, I am starting to get a grip on the politics of men’s fashion. Ultimately, it seems that looking great is a matter of self-confidence and intuition. “I feel that being well put together, or well dressed, is as simple as making sure that you are wearing your clothes and that they are not wearing you,” Chereskin says. That attitude is always en vogue.

"Shape Shifters" (04/14/09)

2009-07-02T13:20:00.000-07:00

When a nude Beth Ditto graced the cover of the February debut issue of Love, the new U.K. based Conde Nast publication, I hoped that Vogue editor Anna Wintour would take the hint.

Ditto, the obese lead singer of The Gossip, beat out skeletal supermodels Agyness Deyn, Raquel Zimmermann, and Kate Moss, as well as fellow singers Iggy Pop and Courtney Love, to land the coveted spot on the cover of the premiere, icon-themed issue. Despite the generally dismal state of publication sales, the issue sold well, a fact that I hoped boded well for Wintour as spring—and Vogue’s infamous “Shape” issue—approached. Maybe seeing the big success of a sister publication could tip the scales for Wintour and her infamous obsession with slenderness.

Unfortunately, this year’s edition of Vogue’s annual “Shape” issue was another plus-sized flop. The magazine, which hit news stands in April, fails to register as anything other than a pejorative, perfunctory nod to political correctness.

The cover, featuring beautiful Beyonce, was splashed with incongruous claims, at once declaring that “Real Women Have Curves” and offering readers a chance to “Work It!” for “Longer Legs, Leaner Lines, and a Sexier Silhouette.” Other cover lines advertised “Fashion for Every Figure, from Size 0 to Size 20,” as well as a feature on plastic surgery and “Designing the Perfect Body.” The offensive implication is that bodies only exist in sizes 0–20. Stores like Banana Republic have petite sections, which carry to the most diminutive figures, like size 00. Torrid, Hot Topic’s plus-size sister store, carries angsty apparel up to size 28, and Lane Bryant sells dainty dresses in sizes 14–32. Even its half-hearted attempts to be inclusive reveal that Vogue doesn’t really believe in fashion for everybody, but only some bodies.

As soon as the cover was leaked by celebrity blogger Perez Hilton on March 13, the feminist blogosphere was up in arms. Commenters on Jezebel, a feminist pop culture blog, railed against the magazine’s description of “real” women. One commenter suggested that “to imply that curves make a ‘real woman’ does injustice to women who aren’t so curvy, and can be just as damaging to women’s self-esteem as the super-skinny standard.” By setting up a category of “real women,” with its own eligibility standards and size limitations, Vogue adds insult to injury for those women who already feel inadequate in comparison to the models who usually grace the pages of the glossy magazine. If a woman is neither a model nor a “real” woman, based on the limiting Vogue standard, what is she? Vogue seems to think that she is either entirely unfathomable, or not worth acknowledging.

Things didn’t fare much better inside the issue. The magazine profiled women with specific body types: thin, curvy, short, tall, and athletic. I was nauseated by writer Sarah Mower’s affectionate quip that sisters Charlotte Gainsburg and Lou Doillon “treat being thin like a birthright.” The gamine girls, daughters of skinny-style icon Jane Birkin, are thrilled to be thin. The pair, who are actresses, occasional models, and, in Charlotte’s case, an accomplished singer-songwriter, are quoted as saying that they’re psyched to be slender because “it’s great for dressing.” The two young mothers both agree that they “hated” their post-pregnancy bodies and couldn’t wait to lose the weight. Even in an issue dedicated to bodies of all shapes and sizes, the writer suggests that clothes look best on super-slender frames.

Pixie-sized pals Olivia Thirlby and Zoe Kravitz are featured as girls who manage to be both small and stylish. Thirlby, an actress best known for her roles in Juno and The Wackness, and Kravitz, a pseudo-actress-cum-musician best known for her social schmoozing and her rocker dad, Lenny, are both approximately five-foot-three. The magazine claims that this height “imposes fashion limits.” Five-three is only really remarkably short in comparison to supermodels’ Amazonian stature. Portraying the beautiful, slender girls as facing severe sartorial challenges just goes to show the extent to which Vogue’s standards are relative and un-relatable.

L’Wren Scott and Doutzen Kroes were used to illustrate tall and athletic bodies, respectively. The thing is, for both women, these attributes weren’t fashion challenges, but the pre-requisites to successful modeling careers.

Cute crooner Adele was the representative of the “curvy” girls. The article spent most of the time chronicling her much-lauded musical career, but the accompanying picture was disturbing. Her picture was also the only one in which the shape of her body is obscured: she’s lying at an angle that flattens her body into the bed, and wearing clothes that camouflage her figure. Skinny Doilan’s lithe legs are prominent in her picture, and Scott dramatically drapes her long body across a chaise lounge. The fact that Adele was positioned in a way that didn’t show off her lovely figure only goes to show the degree to which Vogue’s “Shape” issue really takes issue with many kinds of shapes.

Ditto’s cover wasn’t enough to get Wintour to see the big picture. It’s going to take more to convince her that everybody and every body can be beautiful.

"Traveling Light" (04/07/09)

2009-07-02T13:17:00.000-07:00

Much of my spring break was spent taking notes in airport terminals and snoozing in train stations. I took a working vacation to the East Coast, where I waded through archives and visited friends along the way. My research turned up some great information for my B.A., and my experience traveling solo on a student’s budget forced me to learn how to travel efficiently without sacrificing my style and, more importantly, my sanity.

Size Matters

As I struggled to drag my stuffed suitcase up the perilously steep steps of the hostel I stayed at in D.C., I was partially relieved that my baggage was only carry-on sized. If your bag is big enough to check, it’s far too big to haul all over the city. If you’re traveling on a student’s budget, chances are you’ll be taking buses and trains rather than cabs, so you’ll continually have to wrestle with your unwieldy belongings. Another advantage to the carry-on is the peace of mind that comes from always knowing that your bags will arrive with you, which is particularly important were you to make a mad dash for your connecting gate after your incoming flight is late. It was (almost) easy to sprint through LaGuardia to make my next flight with my rolling suitcase bouncing behind me.

Size also matters when it comes to beauty products. I learned this lesson the hard way last year when my favorite fancy lotion was tossed at the security check in O’Hare. If you’re heading out of town for a week or less, the travel-sized products at drugstores will carry you through. To save even more room in your cosmetics bag, opt for products that do double-duty. I swear by Vaseline lotion with aloe and cucumber ($1 per fluid ounce), which nourishes and moisturizes my skin and has a light, fresh scent that I use in lieu of my liquid perfume, which I leave safely in my bathroom at home. Smith’s Rosebud Salve ($6) is a multi-purpose lipbalm with a cult following and is an indispensable beauty aid for travelers. While I use it on my lips for a non-sticky shine, some of my friends use it to soothe cracked hands and cuticles and even as moisturizer for aching or blistered feet. This is one item I would never leave home without

Easy Access

Because I am fanatical about carrying all my notebooks and papers around with me, my carry-on tote bag was jam-packed throughout the break. Much to the chagrin of the businessman behind me in the security line, I had to unpack my entire bag in order to remove my laptop from its case. He started groaning and complaining under his breath when he noticed that I was struggling to undo the zipper on my boots. Well-traveled passengers like him breezed through security with streamlined, well-organized briefcases and easy-off loafers while I was waddling to the nearest bench with my boots half-off, trying to stuff my belongings back into my bag. Next time I travel, I’ll ditch my boots in favor of cute leather ballet flats from Aldo, which I can slip off for the security check. I’ll stash my laptop in a bright Vera Bradley case with handles so I can tote it to the checkpoint without having to frantically rummage through my bags.

Layer Up

Traveling in layers makes room in your suitcase and also helps you combat chilly airplane cabins. I’m fearful of flying and like to be asleep before the plane takes off so I don’t crush the hand of the unsuspecting passenger next to me. I can sleep easy when I’m swaddled in a chic scarf that serves alternately as a throw and a safety blanket. Fashionistas can choose the luxe cashmere blend variety at department stores, but I like the $5 pashminas I scored in New York’s Chinatown last summer. They’re pretty and patterned, so after I’ve gotten some shut-eye, I can drape them over a cardigan for a relaxed spring look.

Traveling is stressful—you have to endure long lines, frustrating delays, and public transportation systems seemingly designed by someone with a sinister sense of humor. While getting tired and lost is probably inevitable, with a little organization and light packing, you can at least arrive in one stylish piece.

"Spring Fashion Forecast" (03/10/09)

2009-03-12T16:26:00.000-07:00

Chicago weather is notoriously unpredictable. It might be sunny one day, and snowing the next. Spring’s fashion forecast is just as polarized: while some looks are fresh, others are better left buried under a foot of snow.

Though it’s not yet time to happily shove winter wear to the back of the closet, spring has almost sprung. Chicago weather is notoriously unpredictable. It might be sunny one day, and snowing the next. This season’s fashion forecast is just as polarized: while some looks are fresh, others are better left buried under a foot of snow. After scouting spring clothes in stores and on the runways, here are my picks for the most trendy and most terrible looks of the season.

Trendy: Cloudy-day Chic

April showers bring May flowers, but that doesn’t mean you want to get caught in the storm. Brighten up a rainy day with some sunny, waterproof accessories. Brooklyn-based design duo Toni Hacker and Benjamin Harnett, the pair behind the Hayden-Harnett line, have teamed up with Target to create a line of affordable handbags and accessories. While I love almost everything by the cult-favorite brand, the delicate parasol from their Target collection is a standout success. The delicate umbrella is shaped almost like a raindrop, and features bright red, yellow, and blue graphics of textured leaves ($22, www.target.com).

You’ll be singing in the rain when you stomp down the street in Hunter’s Royal Horticultural Society rain boots. The British company, known for their wet-weather wares, partnered with the Horticultural Society to make a line of boots emblazoned with botanical drawings. I love the cheery, feminine knee-high boots featuring images of peaches. These shoes almost make me look forward to puddle-filled days ($68, www.zappos.com).

Terrible: Jumpsuits

One-piece looks were all over the spring fashion shows, and while the slinky satin jumpsuits were sleek at Derek Lam, Dries von Noten, and Diane von Furstenburg, these looks don’t look so sophisticated when translated from the runway to the real world. The outlandish disco-queen outfits are both impractical (going to the bathroom has never been such a hassle!) and unflattering when taken from the showroom to the street. On humid days, these clingy looks will look wrinkled and wilted. Best to chalk this style up to artistic imagination and shop elsewhere.

Trendy: Frontier Fashion

Luella and Marc Jacobs were thinking home on the range for spring, outfitting their models in stripes, faded floral prints, and plaid linen sundresses. If you don’t want to dress like a Laura Ingalls Wilder character, steer clear of quilted skirts and fringed suede vests, and opt for more subtle prairie-inspired accessories. Instead of wearing this trend from head to toe, use individual pieces to accent wardrobe staples like jeans and a tee. Gap and Forever 21 carry lightweight checked scarves ($9-$30) that will help you look pretty, instead of like a pioneer.

Terrible: Skeletal Styles

Rodarte and Alexander McQueen brought skeletons out of the closet for spring when they featured skeleton-inspired prints and silhouettes on the runway. McQueen’s silk-blend jacket features a print reminiscent of the spinal cord and vertebrae. McQueen’s leather toe-detail pumps are totally creepy: the beige pumps would be classic and charming, if they didn’t feature five toe-shaped indentations right where the toes lie in the shoe. The result isn’t fashionable, but freaky. At Rodarte, a barely-there bodice featured strips of silk draped in the pattern of a rib cage, including extra-thick strips serving as the sternum and clavicle. Given the fashion industry’s historical fetish for the skeletally-thin, it seems totally tasteless to capitalize on styles that celebrate this anatomy.

The fashion forecast for spring is only partly cloudy. While some of spring’s biggest looks are bleak, others are bright. Stock up on fresh rain gear and flirty frontier florals, and skip fashion flops like jumpsuits and skeleton-inspired styles. Chicago will be overcast and gray for a few more months, so choose clothes that will put some sunshine into spring.

"Cent-Savy Showcase Proves Moda's Mind on the Money" (03/03/09)

2009-03-05T08:42:00.000-08:00

The recent Fall 2009 collections presented at New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week raised questions about how lavishness can coexist with layoffs. Some people suggested that with the economy in crisis, celebrating outlandish luxury was in poor taste. Though some designers, like James Mischka of design duo Badgley Mischka, continued to prioritize extravagant designs over more economical ensembles, others decided to scale back. Some houses opted to stage static tableaus instead of costlier runway shows, and notorious party boys Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen canceled their fabulous fetes.

Here at the U of C, fashion fiends are struggling with a similar question: How can you celebrate luxury when so many people are struggling to make ends meet? MODA’s fifth annual spring fashion show provides some answers. You can be cheaply chic by using unconventional fabrics, small budgets, and vintage inspirations. The designers whose work will be featured in “Recessionista: A Lesson in Fashion Efficiency” this Friday use their collections to showcase keen social consciousness and an awareness of fashion’s place in today’s world.

The show will feature work by members of MODA’s Designer Boot Camp (DBC), a year-long designing program that helps students take their ideas from sketches to collections. Other student designers and DBC alumni will also present their work, as will professional Chicago-based designers Alice Barry and Annie Novotny of Frei Designs. Student models will strut their stuff in front of scouts from Elite modeling agency. Attendees will get the VIP treatment with appetizers, drinks, goodie bags stuffed with treats from sponsors like LUSH and Teen Vouge, and performances by dance group Rhythmic Bodies in Motion and emerging hip-hop artist Alex Ludovico.

I asked four student designers, now putting the finishing touches on their collections, for some tips about recession-proofing your wardrobe.

Tip 1: Find Inspiration in Unexpected Places

Former student and current designer Michal Lynn Shumate turns grandma’s trash into trendy treasure. Shumate uses discarded domestic items like dust ruffles and doilies to create distinctively retro silhouettes. She believes that recession-friendly clothing should still look like a million bucks. “I think the fact that the dress is made from recycled materials should be secondary. First, it should be a pretty dress,” says Shumate. Her impeccable craftsmanship transforms items that once lay forgotten in a linen closet into elegant accents. Colorful ruffles adding volume to a gingham dress don’t betray their origins as dust ruffles, and lace accenting the bustline on a white frock looks too delicate to have once been part of a tablecloth. Shumate’s beautifully-tailored floral dresses are actually made from pillow cases she picked up at a vintage shop. The result of Shumate’s domestic re-design: It’s haute in the kitchen when domestic textiles go chic.

Tip 2: Rethink Retro

DBC designer Jetty-Jane Connor revamps retro styles, embellishing ’50s-style frocks with funky zippers and other accents that add an androgynous edge to feminine silhouettes. Marc Jacobs shares this aesthetic, but you can get the same look on a dime by adding edgy elements like broaches, zippers, or trim to thrift-store finds. Adding contemporary accents to vintage looks will prevent you from looking stuck in the wrong decade; you’ll look trendy, not out of touch.

Student designer Julian Owens also works with a vintage aesthetic. Owens is fascinated by the costumes worn by early R&B groups like the Supremes. His collection outfits three female “singers” and a male “manager” in glittery getups ready to take center stage. Owens’s bejeweled designs reference the economizing practice of dressing groups in “uniforms.” “It was more cost-effective for bands to dress alike than for everyone to wear a separate outfit,” says Owens. If you’re a performer aching for the spotlight, take a cue from Owens and opt for decorating your own duds instead of splurging on costly costumes.

Tip 3: Opt for Affordable Artistry

DBC designer Jillian Marshall’s collection is more couture than casual—these are not pieces you’d want to wear to class—but her clothes are evidence that beauty doesn’t have to break the bank. Marshall’s pieces are inspired by some of her artistic icons, including composer Piotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and painter Vassily Kandinsky. Marshall also found inspiration in the elegant arabesques found on traditional East Asian dresses such as kimonos. “These clothes were created on an extremely tight budget, which in light of the ‘recessionista’ theme, shows that being artistic doesn’t have to be expensive,” Marshall says. If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind outfit, remember that couture doesn’t have to be costly.

In light of the current fiscal crisis, it’s refreshing to see student designers embracing the notion that fashion and frivolity don’t go hand in hand. Shumate, Connor, Owens, Marshall, and their fellow designers show that fashion doesn’t have to recede along with the economy. Despite Posen and Jacobs’s canceled festivities, when it comes to creative, affordable fashion, the party is far from over.

"Style Stars" (02/24/09)

2009-03-05T08:38:00.000-08:00

Though the Academy Awards are touted as an opportunity to celebrate the year’s most extraordinary achievements in film, the ceremony is also an opportunity to nominate actors, directors, and the odd sound technician for the category of Best Performance in Red Carpet Couture. While some starlets showed up at the fete dressed to impress, others faltered in their fashion choices, choosing gaudy get-ups over glamorous gowns. Fellow fashionista Nathalie Gorman helped me choose the sartorial winners and losers on the red carpet.

DO: Keep it classy

The ever-beautiful Diane Lane set the standard for Oscars elegance Sunday night. Lane attended the ceremony with her husband, Josh Brolin, nominated in the Best Supporting Actor category for his performance in Milk. Though she wasn’t nominated for an award, Lane looked like a winner in an expertly-tailored Dolce & Gabbana gown. While her sweetheart-necked black tulle ensemble is not the flashiest getup, it is a no-fail red carpet outfit. Lane’s sophisticated, tousled updo and minimal diamond accessories elegantly complemented her simple silhouette. The result is timeless red-carpet glamour.

DO: Dress like Oscar

Many starlets, including funny girl Tina Fey and first-time nominee Anne Hathaway, channeled the little guy with body-hugging metallics. Fey looked radiant in an iridescent cap-sleeved, V-necked dress with copper-colored paillettes and a mermaid train. Although she didn’t take home a golden statue this year, Anne Hathaway looked statuesque herself in a sequined, white Armani Privé fishtail dress.

DON’T: Wear the carpet

How can you pose for your adoring public and paparazzi if your dress is indistinguishable from the red carpet? It’s hard to rock the rug when it looks like you’re wearing it. Virginia Madsen, formerly nominated for her performance in Sideways, went wrong when she chose a belted, strapless number in the same crimson shade as the carpet. While the geometric, architectural structure of the dress was a welcome change from a sea of gauzy pastels, the dress would have been more ravishing in a hue that wasn’t camouflaged against the carpet.

While patterns can be elegant and exciting on the red carpet, stylish stars should steer clear of dresses that look like upholstery. Though she later stripped down to a red sequined leotard for her show-stopping musical performance, songstress Beyoncé Knowles walked the carpet in a gaudy black-and-gold floral number that was better suited for a loveseat than a star-studded event. The garish pattern, reminiscent of a tacky couch cover or wallpaper, should never have left the house.

DO: Load up on layers

The red carpet was so full of women wearing varying shades of cream and ecru, you’d almost swear it was a mass wedding. But, among the many swans (no, Björk was not there), Marisa Tomei, in a Versace dress with a massive pleated skirt and train, stood out from the flock. The dress rose from the ground in a series of thick, complex, interlocking folds layered on top of one another, to a simple satin bodice with a soft, delicate one-shouldered neckline. The lightness of the dress’s top, combined with Tomei’s wavy up-do, set off the heavy, sharp skirt.

Less modern but more subtly original was Taraji P. Henson’s beautiful cream-colored Roberto Cavalli gown. From far away, it looked as if it were entirely made of taffeta. The close-up revealed layers of different fabrics, each a slightly different shade of cream. These layers made the tone of the dress shift subtly under the lights; the ruffled skirt, with all its texture, looked very sophisticated.

Finally, Penelope Cruz’s vintage Balmain dress, made of stiff embroidered fabric and soft shirred chiffon, was spectacular. Paired with a strand of diamonds strung like pearls, the dress made Cruz look like a fairy-tale princess—an appropriate choice for the night her Oscar fairy tale came true.

DON’T: Look like Barbie

Once upon a time, many of the women who showed up on the red carpet last night probably dressed up their Barbies in shiny dresses for an imaginary Oscar night. Unfortunately, a few of the actresses walking the red carpet seemed not to realize that the clothes in which they once dressed their dolls were not ideal evening attire for themselves as well.

Viola Davis’s gown was completely flattering to her figure, but the color and fabric made it look tacky. She is genuinely beautiful and talented; it’s a shame she showed up in a dress that really made her look like a little girl playing dress-up. Speaking of which, Miley Cyrus showed up looking like a ridiculous snowflake, in a jewel-encrusted dress cinched at the waist by a belt that looked so plastic it might have come right off the assembly line at Mattel. If Davis and Cyrus had wanted to do something colorful and sparkly, they should have taken a cue from Amy Adams, whose bright red Carolina Herrera gown and enormous multicolored necklace by Fred Leighton were both adventurous and genuinely grown-up.

Whether you’re looking to dress for the red carpet or just for a night on the town, take some style suggestions from the style winners and losers at the Academy Awards. Leave your dolls and tacky upholstery at home, and slip into something intricate, classic, and figure-flattering. Tim Gunn may not be around to swoon over your ensemble, but you’ll still join the ranks of the style stars.

"Weave Through Wicker Park for Winning Wares" (02/17/09)

2009-03-05T08:36:00.000-08:00

As much as I love mega home-décor chains like IKEA and Crate and Barrel, there’s something to be said for decorating your place with unique items that feel more distinctly personal. Though you often can’t beat chain-store prices, their mass-produced items tend to feel sterile and ordinary. Likewise, though I like accessories from stores like Forever 21, I wish I could personalize the baubles and charms that go on my bracelets and necklaces to reflect certain things that mean something to me. With this in mind, I traveled to Wicker Park to find some one-of-a-kind, whimsical items to add some warmth and personality to my space and wardrobe.

When I stopped by the eclectic Elevenzees boutique (1901 West Division Street) on Valentine’s Day, I was greeted with a slice of cake and a glass of champagne. Though this celeb treatment might be reserved for special occasions, the shop’s specialty spices, adorable home accents, and comfy, casual clothes are available every day. The store also has great gift items that will add creative flair to any room, such as a citrusy, spicy candle infused with the scents of pineapple and cilantro ($14) or eco-friendly canvas totes with silkscreened drawings of owls and elephants. I fell in love with a set of salt and pepper shakers shaped like owls ($26 for the pair) which would make great hostess gifts for a dinner party.

If you’re in the market for crocheted cushions or other knit knick-knacks, look no further than Renegade Handmade (1924 West Division Street). This diverse DIY emporium started out as an offshoot of the Renegade Craft Fair, an annual Wicker Park event since 2003. Today, the shop stocks a wide selection of playful housewares, jewelry, posters, prints, plush items, clothing, and stationery made by more than 300 Chicagoland artists. My favorite items are the witty wall décor, like a hand-sewn deer bust mounted on a wooden plaque ($90), a tongue-in-cheek homage to outdoor living. Anyone who is afraid of the dark will sleep easy with the fused-glass nightlights embellished with sketches of animals ($40). Cute canvas pouches ($16 each) with silkscreened birdcages, hedgehogs, and bicycles are whimsical alternatives to a wallet. Because they are sold on consignment, these sweet, sassy items are a little on the pricey side, but I’m happy to help support Chicago crafters and score some one-of-a-kind creations.

Next door is Coco Rouge (1940 West Division Street), a chic café that puts the haute in hot chocolate. Classic cocoa gets a twist when it’s paired with flavors like pistachio, almond, or chili pepper ($4–$5). The gourmet drinks cost the same amount as the ho-hum hot chocolate at Starbucks but offer much more deliciousness for the dollar, and the ambiance is incomparable. The place serves up creative confections in an elegant industrial space accentuated by exposed brick walls, visible wooden ceiling beams, silver chandeliers, and red light fixtures that are reminiscent of Dan Flavin’s installations. This seductive café is a wonderful place to relax and refuel during a day of serious shopping, and the creative, unconventional interior design is a reminder of the fun of shucking tradition of decorating your space with things that you love.

If you’re in the mood to get crafty yourself, stop by Beadniks (1937 West Division Street) to create your own unique piece of jewelry. From teeny seed beads to big baubles and stone Buddha charms, Beadniks has it all. Browse the huge selection and take your choices to one of the tables, where the helpful staff can offer some nimble fingers and help you finish your piece. This shop isn’t your mom’s craft store, but more like a hip boutique, complete with East-meets-West furnishings and trendy tunes. If your creative juices aren’t flowing, browse the selection of pre-made earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.

Wicker Park is a wonderland for fanciful, quirky items that can make your space and closet feel fun and unique. My new owl salt and pepper shakers add a lot of personality to my stark Ikea kitchen table, and my new bracelets—a joint beading effort with my mom—reflect things and people that I care about. I want the place I live and the things I wear to be special and meaningful, and the offbeat Wicker Park boutiques help my surroundings feel more like me.

"Adventures in Belmont " (02/10/09)

2009-03-05T08:31:00.000-08:00

Lined with stores like Burberry, MaxMara, and Coach, the stylish stretch of Michigan Avenue known as the Magnificent Mile attracts hordes of shoppers with deep pockets and huge closets. I, for one, can’t afford the drool-worthy coats that beckon from the Burberry window displays. For clothes and accessories I can buy without having to live on ramen, I leave the Mag Mile behind and catch the Red Line to Belmont. The neighborhood is full of funky resale shops and stylish specialty stores perfect for outfitting the student set.

Fiesty fashionistas will flock to fierce clothing and accessories at The Alley (3228 North Clark Street). With the catchphrase, “Subversive since 1971,” it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the boutique is known for its array of leather goods and sky-high spiky heels. My rocker little brother loves The Alley’s collection of Zippo lighters and huge belt buckles. If the eardrum-bursting music is too loud for you, check out one of The Alley’s other shops lining the street.

The Alley is not just one store, but a retail conglomerate that owns many of the boutiques around the intersection of Clark and Belmont. The Alley Stores include kinky adult emporium Taboo Tabou (854 West Belmont Avenue), hipster paradise Jive Monkey (3224 North Clark Street), Blue Havana smoke shop (852 West Belmont Avenue), boho-chic Architectural Revolution (3226 North Clark Street), and trendy Tragically Hip (914 West Belmont Avenue). I am a frequent shopper at Architectural Revolution. While I sometimes get a headache from the commercialized “exotic” touches like Hindu and Buddhist prayer flags and incense, I love the selection of knit gloves and cozy Mukluk slipper boots, as well as the delicate earrings and unique décor. The store’s tribal fetish aside, it’s a great place to shop for papyrus journals or adorable winter outerwear.

Ragstock (812 West Belmont Avenue) is essentially a two-story warehouse for everything pre-worn. Around Halloween, the store is a dream come true. Partygoers stampede to the massive vintage and resale shop for its stock of kitschy clothes like old school prom dresses, aprons, and fringed leather vests. In the off-season, Ragstock is a one-stop shop for people looking to dress for costume parties or trying to find a creative and dirt-cheap addition to their wardrobe. The store’s enormous inventory makes it a little claustrophobic, and with racks of clothes everywhere, it sometimes requires a bit of digging to strike sartorial gold. I love the massive array of kimonos, which are a stylish alternative to the tired terry cloth bathrobe. Ragstock carries vintage day dresses from every decade. I used a 1960s shift dress I found there as inspiration for the collection I designed for last year’s MODA show. With prices starting at just $2, Ragstock is a year-round bargain destination.

Belmont also caters to bibliophiles. Check out Chicago Comics (3244 North Clark Street) to browse the huge selection of Manga, small press, and indie titles. Of course the store stocks standard Marvel comics, but it also carries an eclectic book collection including compilations of Popeye comics from the late 1920s and a book I added to my reading list: “Frightful Fairy Tales.” It’s a collection of romantic fairy tales accompanied by the Victorian-inspired drawings of famed comic illustrator Dame Darcy.

If you’re looking to dress to impress on the party circuit, stop by Fashion Tomato (937 West Belmont Avenue), the sartorial love child of Charlotte Russe and Bebe. Once in a while, you’ll find classy day wear in the boutique—I swooned over a damask brocade trench coat last spring—but generally, the shop caters to a crowd looking for sassy party clothes. The shop carries trendy party dresses and tops of questionable quality. Though the clothes aren’t built to last, they’re priced accordingly. This shop is a great alternative to Forever 21, an emporium for all poorly-made-but-adorable things tight, short, and disposable. A word of caution: there is no return policy for dresses, so try before you buy.

There may come a time when I have the budget to splurge on clothes at Burberry. Until then, I’ll happily browse and buy in Belmont. Michigan Avenue’s Magnificent Mile may be a mecca for high-end retail, but when it comes to scoring good deals on cool, quirky clothes and accessories, Belmont is pretty magnificent, too.

"Dress Up Your Address" (02/03/09)

2009-02-03T20:39:00.000-08:00

I never appreciated how great I had it in the dorms until I had a space of my own. I spent my first year living in a double in Hitchcock, and despite grimy carpets and the occasional mouse in the shower, I had an adorable, well furnished room. With desks, dressers, bookshelves, beds, armchairs, and a fireplace, my room was cramped but cozy. The biggest problem was trying to find enough storage.

Later I moved into an apartment and faced a problem I never encountered in the dorms: What to do with all the space? Since my room in Hitchcock was pre-furnished, I had no furniture of my own for my new place. I decorated my dorm with posters duct-taped to the wall, but I felt that this wasn’t decor befitting a more mature space. I wanted to have an age-appropriate apartment—one that was classy but casual. I was totally clueless about how to create a functional and fashionable living area. Though my obsession with interior design meant I had lots of ideas about decorating, I worried that my tiny budget would make outfitting my apartment impossible. Right after signing my lease, I felt panicked instead of ecstatic. I wondered, Now What?

Furniture was the first problem. My roommate and I like to have friends over for movie and video game marathons, so comfy and copious seating was our first priority. We wanted to make an enclave of couches surrounding a TV, but our modest paychecks meant that retail stores were out of the question. Instead we found great deals on marketplace.uchicago.edu, a Craigslist-esque website just for the U of C community. In addition to a huge corduroy couch for $75, we scored a monster TV that was ours for only $70. Our purchases needed a little renovation—we went through many lint-rollers before our couch was fully free of cat hair—but buying from Marketplace allowed us to purchase furniture we never would have been able to afford otherwise.

Another thing I learned is that a coat of paint can make a dramatic difference in a space. I painted my bedroom a husky gray, and the muted silver tones added substance to the airy room without overpowering it. If your apartment is less-than-spacious, you can use paint to differentiate areas in multi-purpose rooms. My roommate and I have a combination living room/dining room, so we painted the dining room a light green, which echoes to the decorations in our living room but creates a distinct separation.

I felt that moving into an apartment meant that it was time to retire the posters and get some “big girl” decorations. I took the DIY route and got creative with room decor by expanding my notions of what could be mounted on a wall. I picked out some sheets of wrapping paper from Kate’s Paperie and mounted them in Ikea frames that I had painted burnt gold. One sheet of paper has beautiful flora and fauna motifs, and the other looks like a collage of vintage postcards. Each frame and sheet of wrapping paper was only $4, and for less than $20, I adorned my walls with pretty, dainty decorations that are much more sophisticated than my old posters.

You can also take a thrifty approach to decorating by recycling your glass bottles and creating easy table centerpieces. Wine bottles and Martinelli apple juice jars can be used as adorable vases for fresh flowers. The aesthetic is vintage-y, and since you’re using things you already own, the cost is minimal.

Next, I added pizzazz to plain surfaces with decoupage. I used Modge Podge glue to affix pages from vintage magazines to my boring white desk and chair. Any printed materials suitable for cutting and pasting, such as postcards, newspaper clippings, or pages from books, will work too. One of my friends used antique bird books to create a beautiful and unique desktop, and old medical textbooks would be quirky additions to a Spartan surface.

When confronted with the problem of where to put my stuff, I learned to make my decor do double-duty as storage. My two bookshelves did not come close to housing my massive book collection, so I used the books that didn’t fit to adorn my apartment. My collection of oversized artists’ monographs make great coffee table decorations, and I placed novels along the windowsill in the dining room to make the space feel cozy and plug the draft from under the window.

Though looking in my near-empty cupboards sometimes makes me wish I still had a Bartlett meal plan, I’m happy to be in a space of my own. While it’s daunting to face furnishing and decorating an apartment on almost no income, it is possible to make an empty space feel comfortable without spending a lot of cash. With creativity and a DIY–attitude, any budget-conscious student can live in style.

"Adventures: Andersonville" (01/27/09)

2009-02-02T12:21:00.000-08:00

Most of us at the U of C have a deep and enduring passion for learning. Perhaps this is why some people become so wrapped up in the Life of the Mind that they neglect other aspects of their lives. Though scholarship should be our priority, we should also make time to take advantage of the amazing opportunities beyond the walls of the library. While it’s tempting to camp in a Reg cubicle until the beginning of spring quarter, beat the winter blahs by bundling up, braving the blustery winds, and getting off campus and into the city.

Although it is kind of a trek, trendy Andersonville is worth the trip. Take the #55 bus to the Garfield Red Line station and ride to the Berwyn stop. Before you balk at waiting on the platforms, remember that the elevated stops are outfitted with heat lamps. Walk down Berwyn to Clark Street and get ready to stuff your face, your closet, and your bookshelf without emptying your wallet.

Fuel up for a day of shopping with a savory crepe at Icosium Kafe (5200 North Clark Street). The food at this charming Moroccan restaurant is both beautiful and bountiful. Start your meal off with the mint tea and honey, served in a lovely silver teapot, or the monster-sized and succulent dulce de leche. All crepes come with a side of soup, so be sure to opt for the delicious vegetable puree with hints of yellow squash and carrots. For the main dish, choose from a sweet confection like the Crepe Aziz (fresh strawberries, kiwi, and dark chocolate or nutella), or a savory dish like the Cheka Chouka crepe (roasted bell peppers, arugula, goat cheese, carmelized onions, Roma tomatoes, pine nuts, roasted garlic, and baby spinach). If you don’t find a crepe on the menu to salivate over, you can make a custom one. Unlike many crepes, these thin pancakes aren’t sickly sweet, but light and porous. The decor is amazing—beaded chandeliers and fresh flowers adorn each table—and the service is great; our waitress let us sit and chat at the table long after we finished our meal and didn’t bring us the check until we asked for it. Expect to spend about $10 a person for food and drinks.

If you’re not in the mood for crepes, feed on some fabulous falafel at Taste of Lebanon (1509 West Foster Avenue). Gorge on massive portions of schwarma, lentil soup, and falafel wraps piled high with tomatoes and tahini. Cheap eats are a dime a dozen in Chicago, but these prices are almost ridiculous. A meal of pita, soup, and sandwich will run you only six dollars. Be sure to plan ahead though: Taste of Lebanon is cash-only and closed on Sundays.

Those of you who can never get enough cheap, chunky accessories will want to raid the kitschy costume jewelry selection at Presence (5216 North Clark Street). I scored a headband with delicate felt flowers, a simple gold ring with a single amber stone, and a whimsical necklace with shreds of pastel shells. Frugal fashionistas will also want to scour the handbag selection. I found a chic faux-snakeskin clutch for $14. The cocktail dresses are perfect for a last-minute party ensemble—you can look like a million bucks for less than $40. A zebra-print dress with kimono sleeves might be inappropriate for Sosc class but would be a cute look for a night on the town.

Bibliophiles should make a stop at Women and Children First Bookstore (5233 North Clark Street), a great place to shop for feminist classics and provocative new releases in queer literature. If your bookshelves are already overflowing, peruse the gift section, which includes snarky, politically charged satirical pieces and alternative menstrual products. The bookstore also hosts feminist-friendly readings and gatherings such as the upcoming Lesbian Poetry Celebration on February 15. Check their website (womenandchildrenfirst.com) for a full list of events.

On your way back to the El, grab a tasty bite to go at the Pasticceria Natalina (5406 North Clark). This elegant-but-affordable Sicilian bakery offers pastries, cannolis, marzipan fruits, and deliciously rich dark chocolate. When the weather gets warmer, remember to cool down with some homemade gelato.

As college students, though we strive to sustain the Life of the Mind, we should also remember to get a life outside of the classroom. There’s too much to do in the whole city to have the South Loop be the northern extent of our Chicago adventures. Just for a few hours, leave Foucault in your Reg locker, get on the El, and get exploring!

"Nail That Interview! Fashion Do's and Don'ts for Landing the Gig" (01/13/09)

2009-02-02T12:19:00.000-08:00

The start of winter quarter means it’s time to break out the long underwear, waterproof your favorite boots, and head back to the library to wait for the thaw. In case you’re not already nostalgic for summers past, remember that in addition to Kuviasungnerk/Kangeiko and Midwinter Blues, winter quarter is also time for another U of C tradition: the frantic scramble for the summer internship.

At best, the summer internship, a no-brainer for many undergraduate students, is a modestly paid opportunity to dip your toes into the deep end of the employment pool, network with interesting people, maybe live in a new city, and, if you’re a writer, score some clips for your portfolio. At worst, it’s a glorified type of indentured servitude with an occasional stipend of cold coffee and yesterday’s newspaper.

Parents, teachers, and counselors justify the unpaid internship by saying it is a character-building stepping-stone to a prestigious job in publishing, academia, or museum work. Eating stale ramen in a windowless, $1,300 per month apartment does perhaps build scharacter, and in many fields, a summer of relentless projects and relative poverty is essentially a prerequisite for later full-time employment. In this uncertain economic time, establishing working relationships with industry professionals is more important than ever.

It’s an intern-eat-intern world out there, so how can you set yourself apart from the militant and highly-qualified pack during an interview? Once you’ve proofread your résumé, firmed up your handshake, and compiled a list of thoughtful questions to ask, the real work begins. With an interview, you’ve got about 20 minutes to convince a suspicious employer that you, a college student most comfortable in a uniform of sweatshirts and pajama pants, are ready for the big leagues.

One of my former bosses told me that while a good interview can compensate for a less-than-stellar résumé, a poor impression could eliminate a competitor with near-perfect grades and impressive extracurriculars. The trick is presenting yourself as calm, competent, and confident, which is easier said than done when various professions have different dress codes.

As my dad says, you should dress like you belong at the organization in order to make it easier for the interviewers to better envision you as a future member of the team. This doesn’t necessarily mean busting out the business casual. When I showed up at my first interview for a stylish women’s fashion and lifestyle magazine wearing a prim and proper pinstripe skirt suit, my ensemble revealed my self-consciousness and lack of real knowledge about the publication. So when it comes to interviews, how do you know where to wear what?

For my interviews at magazines, museums, and art galleries, I bucked business casual in favor of stylish and sophisticated ensembles that closer resembled the outfits worn by the editors and curators that I’ve met. I try to wear things that are polished and professional while still emphasizing aesthetics and creativity. My go-to interview outfit is a gray, knee-length, v-cut wool dress from Banana Republic with figure-flattering darts below the bust line and a well-defined waist. I top the dress with a cropped Gap jacket with three-quarter-length sleeves. Accessories take these staples from timeless to trendy. I always wear my favorite charm necklace and faux-pearl earrings. This winter, I will pay homage to the jewel-tone trend by pairing the outfit with my opaque amethyst tights.

Adrienne Schmoeker, a fourth-year public policy major with an econ concentration, just accepted a full-time offer to be a business analyst at Sears. To dress for corporate success, she says she always wears a gray pantsuit, teal button-up shirt, and black heels to interviews.

“[Dressing professionally] shows that you respect the occasion and whoever you will be speaking with,” Schmoeker says. She suggests that applicants for corporate jobs like hers should err on the side of conservatism. “Always over-dress,” she says. “It won’t hurt.” What works in Schmoeker’s field wouldn’t work in mine, and vice versa. Once you know what professionals in your field wear, you’ll be able to dress and conquer.

Many students apply for out-of-state internships, and our busy schedules and meager savings accounts often make it impossible to interview face-to-face. While it may be tempting to conduct phone interviews sprawled out on your bed in your grubbiest, comfiest sweats, this is a dangerous plan. Worst case scenario: You fall asleep on the phone. More likely you will sound a little tired or lackadaisical, not like the frenzied, internship-getting machine that you are.

I’ve had good experiences with phone interviews that I treated like in-person interviews. Make the effort to dress as you would for a face-to-face interview with that organization, and take the phone call in a straight-backed chair to recreate the anxiety-inducing face-to-face interrogation. Though the person on the other end of the line won’t know how great you look, dressing the part may help you sound alert and assured. Your interviewer will be able to appreciate your ensemble once you get the job!

Maybe you’ve decided to skip Kuvia and sleep through this week’s 6 a.m. calisthenics. However, the internship search is one U of C winter tradition you can’t miss. Figure out whether your interview attire should be boho-chic or business casual, and ring in the new year with a new internship. Summer will be here before we know it.

"Average Joes and Average Josephines" (11/25/08)

2008-11-29T22:17:00.000-08:00

Magazines like Vogue and Gentleman’s Quarterly are required reading for those who are who are literate in style. But while GQ celebrates the average dude, Vogue chastises everyone but the ladies who lunch. GQ features articles about fashion, finance, sports, politics, and culture—everything a man needs to be smart and stylish. Vogue, on the other hand, reduces its readers to beauty dilemmas and carnal conundrums.

GQ celebrates masculinity in its myriad manifestations, but Vogue prescribes a femininity that is blond, buxom, and boy-crazy.

Jimmy Kimmel is one good poster-boy for this contrast. Kimmel is no Adonis. He is more chubby than chiseled, more stout than statuesque. Yet in November 2008, GQ deemed him worthy of gracing its cover.

This wasn’t the first time that the cover model has been more boy-next-door than Bond. Funnyman Seth Rogan, whose film career is based on his ability to be endearingly bumbling and unkempt, was featured on the cover of the August 2008 issue. Though GQ does include advertisements for high-end luxury brands like Prada and Burberry—advertorials featuring big-eyed, bony boys with puckered pouts and très-chic trench coats—lately, some of the men who have graced the cover are more couch-potato than couture.

What does this paunchy pair have in common? Searing intellect, wicked wit, and thriving careers. In their feature stories, these gentlemen are revealed to be smart, funny, and charismatic. They like to make pizza from scratch. Their homes are decorated with pictures of their families. They are passionate about politics and can discuss their views eloquently and with a sense of humor. In short, they’re cool guys with whom you’d like to share a homemade pizza.

Kimmel and Rogan kind of seem like average guys who got lucky. They are talented and successful, but their talent and success seem attainable. Rogan and his friends wrote some pseudo-autobiographical screenplays, and people loved them because they were so comically astute. Kimmel fart-joked his way to fame with fellow Average Dude Adam Corolla on The Man Show. These wisecracking Joes are accessible, lovable characters who resemble men you might meet at the bookstore or sports bar. They’re regular guys—just with enormous paychecks.

In short, both men are on the outskirts of celebrity, well known and recognizable, but outside the glare of the tabloid headlights. They are known for their careers, rather than their clothes or their crushes.

It’s a different story for Vogue cover girls like Reese Witherspoon. A romantic comedy darling and Vogue cover-model veteran, Witherspoon graces the cover of the November 2008 issue. The actress is best known for her work in Legally Blonde, the story of a ditzy ingenue who uses her feminine wiles to charm her way into Harvard Law. She ultimately uses her womanly intuition and fashion know-how to crack the case and save the day. Elle Woods’ sbeauty trumps her brains, and Vogue seems to prescribe the same thing for its cover models.

Witherspoon’s cover reads: “Reese Revealed—New Look, New Man, New Lease on Life.” Inside, long-winded descriptions of Witherspoon’s impeccable physical appearance and blossoming romance with superhunk Jake Gyllenhaal take precedence over any substantive discussion of her likes, dislikes, and views. The characters Witherspoon plays, and the persona that the magazine presents, are unattainable—too pretty and too peppy to be plausible.

The cover choices embody some of the fundamental differences between these two publications. GQ’s motto is “Look Sharp, Live Smart,” and the magazine is dedicated to achieving both ends. The magazine speaks to sartorialists of all tastes, as well as epicureans, bibliophiles, and brainy bloggers. The November issue featured fashion editorial spreads of durable designer outdoor gear, classic trench coats, and modern three-piece suits in addition to a recipe for beer-braised beef and a list of five books each presidential candidate should read to round out his intellect, work on his weaknesses, and broaden his understanding of the American experience.

While GQ is a smart guide to stylish dressing and living, Vogue sometimes reads like a blog written by celebutantes and socialites. Assistant Editor Lauren Davis’s lavish 2007 wedding to Bolivian billionaire Andres Santo Domingo became fodder for a feature story. Famously flaxen fashionista Tinsley Mortimer seems to appear in almost every issue. Her most newsworthy accomplishment to date? A cameo role in a recent episode of Gossip Girl. At times, the magazine feels like a gussied-up version of MySpace—only, instead of the sly, self-shot portraits, the images are exorbitantly expensive, liberally airbrushed pictures of feminine “perfection.” There’s a crowd of It Girls who are consistently featured, and like Witherspoon, Davis, and Mortimer, they all look the part: blonde hair, blue eyes, lithe figures, and expensive ensembles. The women are portrayed as one-dimensional and essentially the same. It feels like reading the same interview over and over again.

I am going to continue to hoard my boyfriend’s issues of GQ until I can find a women’s lifestyle publication that informs my consciousness, as well as my closet. It’s great to look sharp, but a woman needs to live smart, as well.

"Winter Clothes Woes" (11/18/08)

2008-11-29T22:10:00.000-08:00

As temperatures plummet, many Chicago bears want to hibernate until spring. But before you stock up on Easy Mac and barricade yourself in your drafty dorm room, consider stocking up on some cold-weather essentials that will have you looking cool and staying warm all winter long.

Though I applaud the noble efforts of those struggling to strut through snow in stilettos, boots are winter wear du jour. While brands like Ugg, Burberry, and Coach have cozy and coveted options, rubber Wellies are an equally chic—and much cheaper—choice. The Brits are very familiar with rain, so it should come as no surprise that they have perfected the rubber rain boot. Hunter boots, my favorite English export, are tall, trim, and cute enough to wear even when the weather’s dry. The rubber boots come in every color of the rainbow and in a variety of patterns, including lush botanical motifs. Some styles are tailored to look like riding boots, so even the clumsiest among us can dress the part of a polo player. Hunter boots start at 55 euros (approximately $69). Got cold feet? Stay dry and warm with fleece Wellie Warmers from Americana purveyor L.L. Bean. These $20 inserts will keep your toes toasty.

Indoors, however, my feet are always freezing, and my bare wood and linoleum floors don’t help. At home, I bundle up in snuggly slipper boots. Part slipper, part sweater for your feet, these cozy contraptions are perfect for sleeping, studying, or snacking at home. Old Navy carries a variety of styles, from wintry Nordic motifs to classic cable-knit patterns. Each pair runs about $19.

On those sad mornings when you do have to leave your warm bed and brave the blustery walk to the bus stop, cap off a winter ensemble with a comfy hat from Urban Outfitters. Cable stitch berets are boho-chic when tossed over tousled hair. A faux-fur pillbox hat looks retro when paired with a trapeze coat. All of the store’s wool hats ($25 to $35) are whimsical and wintry, and since they’re stylish enough to leave on all day, hat hair is a non-issue.

Don’t be a Scrooge when it comes to keeping your fingers warm. Forgoing gloves is a recipe for dry, cracked hands and freezing fingers. Though you can buy cheap packs of gloves at emporiums like H&M, I recommend investing in a pair of really warm mittens. While thin little gloves look dainty and darling, you won’t look cute wearing them—you’ll just look cold. My gloves may resemble bear paws, but they keep my digits dexterous. When I need to up the style quotient, I wriggle my fingers into a pair of leather gloves lined with fleece. Nordstrom carries a variety of leather gloves with pretty stitching details that are both cute and cozy.

When winter hits the Windy City, it’s tempting to hide in the house. But since classes aren’t postponed while the ice and snow melt, we’ve got to outfit ourselves to battle the elements. Warm, waterproof rain boots, snazzy slippers, cozy caps, and leather gloves will help any shivering student weather the winter in style.

"Mix Master" (11/11/08)

2008-11-11T11:46:00.000-08:00

Mary-Kate Olsen went from child star to fashion wunderkind when she ushered in the era of “bag-lady chic” style. Swathed in jersey dresses and oversized cotton T-shirts and swaddled in chunky knits, Olsen accentuates her look with enormous sunglasses and bangles. Olsen combines clothes from fashion houses like Chanel and Proenza Schouler with pieces from thrifty megachains like Top-Shop. The diminutive diva is fluent in high-low fashion, mixing high-end splurges with low-end steals. It’s all about the mix.

You don’t have to be a celebutante to get in the mix. Third-year Virginia Rangos is a mix-master who elegantly and effortlessly mixes high and low fashion. She helped me compile a list of guidelines for dressing the part.

Splurge on the Staples

Some style experts suggest buying bargain basics and splurging on stylish accessories, but Rangos disagrees. Investing in high-quality basics ensures that your wardrobe will have staying power, both literally and figuratively.

“My strategy of late has been to buy basic things from higher-end stores so that I have some things that are really well made,” she said. “I know that I will be able to wear them for a few years without them falling apart.”

In the fickle world of fashion, trends change in a flash, but well tailored dresses, blouses, and trousers never go out of style. Rangos recently purchased a beautiful midnight-blue corduroy dress with silver buckle accents and a simple, gray long-sleeved sweater-dress from Marc Jacobs. These purchases are versatile and well-made, and will be wearable for years.

Once you’ve built a foundational wardrobe, you can indulge momentary trends. Fashion emporiums like Forever 21 and H&M stock cheap, of-the-moment items that can be used to take a basic outfit from tired to trendy.

“I fill in the gaps in my wardrobe with stylish things from Forever 21, which will shred after I wear them twice,” Rangos said. Fashion-forward items like charm necklaces and plaid headbands can be bought for only $3.40. Dropping the big bucks on basic items will give your wardrobe a sense of timelessness and prevent it from falling apart the moment you take off the price tag; buying trendy items at low prices means that you won’t feel guilty dumping the disposable duds when their moment has passed.

Accent Artfully

Rangos understands than when it comes to flamboyant fashion, less is more. Spandex, crazy colors, metallics, and animal prints should be employed with discretion. These items can add a much-needed “pop” to a basic ensemble but can quickly turn from glam to garish.

“I love my gold Puma tennis shoes, but I don’t wear them very frequently,” Rangos said. “I don’t want to be known as the girl who wears gold Puma shoes.” Distinctive pieces are best used as accents to dramatize a simple ensemble. As Rangos puts it, “You don’t want your entire wardrobe to be different shades of spandex.”

Buy for your Body

It’s not true that you have to be svelte and six feet tall to look stunning; you just need to find a style that compliments you.

“Things that aren’t fitted don’t look good on me,” Rangos said. “They hang off me like a tent.” Instead, she picks figure-flattering fitted tops and high-waisted skirts, as well as belted dresses that emphasize her whittled waist.

Women with a pear-shaped figure may want to wear a dress or skirt that skims the lower half of the body while accentuating the waist, or choose a blouse with fuller sleeves that balances out the wider portion of the body. Women with broader shoulders, on the other hand, might select a dress with dramatic, body-balancing details on the hemline.

Finally, a piece of clothing that looks better on the rack than it does on your body should never make its way to your closet. “I’ve made the mistake of finding something that I loved and just buying it in a size that was too big or too small if they didn’t have it in my own,” Rangos said. “It never works out.” It seems that even a Marc Jacobs dress that doesn’t fit simply isn’t worth the money.

Comfort, not the brand name, is key. After all, it’s impossible to look your best if you’re self-consciously tugging at an outfit that is too skimpy or constricting—fit has to be just right. “Never buy something you have to wear with strategically placed tape,” Rangos said, laughing.

Remember that good fit doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg. “The last formal dress I bought was from Zara, and it was only $40,” Rangos said. When accented with costume jewelry, including a $5 strand of fake pearls from Marc Jacobs, the affordable dress became black-tie attire.

Forget the Rules

Rangos’s style is not calculated; she buys what she likes and wears what looks good on her. By wearing what she feels best in, Rangos is always able to look confident, comfortable, and chic.

Rangos’s sweater-dresses, chunky boots, and massive necklaces look stunning on her—but they aren’t for everyone. Just as many of us would look like drowning beetles in Mary-Kate’s multiple layers, we wouldn’t all look great in Rangos’s blue Marc Jacobs jumper. We should all find whatever fits us best and run with it. High-low fashion makes it easy to stay true to our personal styles without entirely disregarding trends. If “bag-lady chic” has taught us anything, it is that sometimes, fashion rules are made to be broken.

"Designer Duds on a Dime" (11/04/08)

2008-11-06T21:12:00.000-08:00

Despite the old adage that says nothing comes free, even couture can be had for cheap.

I like good deals: the five-dollar lunch special at Wok ’n’ Roll; the discarded, oversized leather couch my roommate and I found in an alley and dragged up two flights of stairs; and, of course, the two for $20 T-shirts at The Gap. My preference is for easy, durable basics in muted color palettes that allow me to look like a million bucks for less than the cost of a deep-dish pizza. But some frugal fashionistas aren’t content to shop down-market. Still, label-lovers don’t have to lease a room in their apartment to pay for a pair of pants. There are numerous ways to don designer duds without breaking the bank.

Some of the best deals can only be found early and under the radar. When shopping in a stylish city, keep your eyes peeled for fashionable activity taking place in alleyways and warehouses. Sample sales are veritable fashion jackpots, opportunities to score beautiful clothes at less-than-boutique prices. These sales, which occur at the end of a season, are essentially massive purges of a designer’s leftover inventory, and clothes are priced to move. In September, my mother and I were strolling down Lafayette Street in New York when we noticed an army of well dressed women making a beeline for a seemingly empty building. Following their lead, we stumbled upon a sample sale for Matta, a designer who creates luxurious skirts, blouses, and dresses full of rich, brightly colored textiles and hand-stitched detailing. Five dollars bought me a beautiful high-waisted black skirt (original price: almost $200).

While I fell into fashion fortune in that instance, it’s generally crucial to plan ahead. Sample sales are fiercely competitive, full-contact sports. While they’re perfect for those of us with light wallets, sample sales are not for the weak of heart. The best items go early, so plan to wake up with the sun. Once you brave the morning, prepare to face off against the other shoppers. Fighting over items is par for the fashionable course. Since most sample sales are held in warehouses, they rarely have dressing rooms; so check your modesty at the door, or think about investing in a leotard. Many sample sales are not widely advertised, but google “sample sale listings,” and you will find databases specific to all of the major fashion destinations—including Chicago. Remember to bring cash, because many sales don’t accept credit cards or checks. Finally, examine all of the items closely before you pay for them, because all sales are final. If you find a tear in a pair of pants after paying for them, the pants—and the tear—are yours.

Discount designer clothing stores such as Loehmann’s, Filene’s Basement, and Barney’s Co-op are similar to sample sales in that they offer expensive clothing at accessible prices. Like sample sales, the inventory is usually a season behind, so you can’t show up in December looking for a winter coat. These stores are notoriously jam-packed with clothes, so they can be overwhelming and difficult to navigate. However, with patience and a well trained eye, you can find some amazing bargains.

Thrifty fashionistas who can’t commit swear by Bag, Borrow, or Steal, an Internet service that allows members to borrow designer purses, watches, and sunglasses. For a fee, members can rent purses by Louis Vuitton, Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Coach, and other luxury brands for a week or month at a time. Bag, Borrow, or Steal is like NetFlix for purses: You just rent and return. Coach purses start at just $15—that’s the equivalent of brewing your own coffee for five days instead of splurging on Starbucks.

On eBay, a wealth of designer wares await at reasonable prices, but buyers should be cautious. When it comes to eBay, you don’t always get what you pay for. I ordered a “D&G” t-shirt that looked just like one I had seen in a magazine and was immensely disappointed when the package on my doorstep bore a screen-printed American Apparel baseball tee. Be sure to read the reviews of the seller’s transactions, and take seriously the feedback from other buyers. A seller who doesn’t have a rating of close to 100 percent probably has a stockpile of American Apparel T-shirts ready to be sold to less-savvy sartorialists. While you can ball up the T-shirt and hide it in the back of your dresser, you might not be able to get a refund on your money—or your pride.

Also, don’t assume that designer clothing is always astronomically expensive. Sneaky sellers sometimes push an item for far more than its market value. Though $149 might seem like a steal for some chic Marc Jacobs rain boots, don’t be sucked into the scam. Before you place a bid, visit the designer’s website to check the market price of the product. You might save yourself a small fortune: Marc Jacobs rubber wellies sell for only $29 online and at the brand’s Soho boutique.

In our current economic climate, it seems crazy to pay full price for designer items—there are simply far more pressing, pragmatic uses for a few hundred dollars. But with so many budget-friendly ways to buy designer clothes, fashionistas can have their shoes and wear them, too.

"Palin: Posh or Pedestrian?" (10/28/08)

2008-10-31T23:36:00.000-07:00

As the election approaches, attention has shifted from politics to pantsuits. Clothes have become a campaign issue.

Image experts have always postulated that dressing for success is especially important for politicians; smart dressing connotes recognition of the serious responsibility involved, and the polish necessary to get the job done smoothly. This is probably one of the reasons that Republican vice presidential candidate Sarah Palin has undergone a last minute, dramatic transformation, abandoning her gubernatorial cowl-neck sweaters for couture skirt suits.

“Outfitgate” is the latest scandal rocking the Republican campaign. In recent weeks, Palin has ditched her J.C. Penney clothes for a $150,000 designer wardrobe from high-end, high–price tag department stores like Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Neiman Marcus. The Republican Party footed the considerable bill.

The sartorial scandal offers us an interesting opportunity to reflect on the relationship between clothes and communication: What do the clothes we wear tell people about what we believe in?

The question applies to the clothing choices we make in our everyday lives. I can’t stand clutter, and my clothes communicate that I prioritize organization: I am big on color coordination, and I prefer crisp cropped jackets to lackadaisical layers. These are pretty innocuous sentiments; it’s likely that no one but my roommate minds my obsession with order. The clothes worn by a public figure, especially a politician, are much more controversial—especially when the messages the clothes communicate are incongruous with the politician’s platform.

The Republican Party has pitched Sarah Palin to the American people as a moose-hunting hockey mom. Her appeal was partly due to her embodiment of middle class ideals. Her cable-knit turtlenecks were versatile enough to go from campaign meeting to PTA meeting. These clothes reflected Palin’s investment in being both a career woman and a family woman, an ideology championed by the present Republican campaign. Palin’s new wardrobe seems incompatible with the middle-class family values that she has publicly espoused; an Oscar de la Renta skirt suit would be out of place in an ice rink.

Moreover, the shopping spree could spell political disaster in a period of economic crisis, in which $150,000 is more than a year’s salary for many Americans. Given the state of the American economy, spending so much on clothes seems frivolous and out of touch. The Republican campaign has been interested in trying to identify with Joe Six-Pack, but no Joe can afford a wardrobe that costs more than a car or a college education. Stores like Target and J.C. Penny, on the other hand, are infinitely more relatable. These stores can be found in almost every town in America and offer clothes within the voters’ price range. Target’s line of clothes by designer Isaac Mizrahi includes some speech-worthy cap-sleeve dresses that start at just $40. When topped with a $17 black cardigan, the outfit would definitely get my vote. If Palin wants to position herself as similar to a large portion of American voters, why does she choose not to dress like them?

Palin and McCain have suggested that the expensive ensembles are just campaign costuming and will be returned or donated to charity following the election. But why have Palin dress up only to later put her back in the consignment-store jeans she proudly wore in front of crowds at a campaign stop in Alaska? The Republican Party needs to think about the ideological implications of Palin’s skirts and suits. At this stage in the race to the White House, alienating the voting population would be a major faux pas. When dressing the part costs an arm and leg, it might cost Palin some votes as well.

"Eco Chic" (10/21/08)

2008-10-21T16:21:00.000-07:00

Green is the new black.

It’s hardly surprising, given that “environmental sustainability” is one of the most prominent catchphrases of the moment. Questions of sustainability and development have inevitably become hot issues in the current presidential race, manifest in debates about drilling in the Alaskan Wildlife Refuge and America’s dependence on foreign oil. With the ozone layer rapidly depleting, eco-warriors encourage wasteful Americans to be more conscientious consumers and consider the environmental implications of the food we eat and the cars we drive.
While many people probably feel a degree of gas-guzzling guilt, most shoppers are likely unaware of the environmental impact of the clothes that they buy. Conversations about consumption and environmentalism have begun to include discussions about skirts as well as SUVs. More than ever, the fashion industry is getting in on the environmental action.

The eco-chic craze first registered on my fashion radar a few years ago, when Anya Hindmarch’s “I am not a plastic bag” totes took London by storm. The initial shipment sold out within two hours at the Sainsbury supermarket chain, and the bag has since become a coveted North American import. Though originally intended to serve as a cute replacement for their environmentally toxic plastic counterparts, the totes became the purses du jour for fashion fiends everywhere, and were spotted on the arms of international It Girls such as Kate Beckinsdale.

Since hemp is no longer the only eco-friendly fabric, green doesn’t have to be granola. Recent Project Runway winner Leanne Marshall is a champion of conscientious couture. Her impeccably tailored and beautifully structured garments are as easy on the environment as they are on the eyes: Marshall used recycled textiles and natural materials such as organic cotton to create the fanciful wave dresses that she rode to Runway glory.

Marshall’s fanciful frocks are out of a student’s price range, but it’s possible to go green on a budget. Clothing megachain The Gap has jumped aboard the eco-friendly bandwagon. In spring 2007, the brand’s 500 North American stores began carrying men’s shirts made from unbleached organic cotton. Conventional cotton is maintained by chemicals that soak up nearly a quarter of the world’s pesticides. At $16.50 a pop, these shirts are a wallet-friendly way to wear your environmental consciousness on your sleeve.

Target is another superbrand that’s invested in affordable eco-fashion. From May 18 to June 28, 2008, the retail stores featured pieces by the 11th GO International designer, recent CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Rogan Gregory. Gregory, a renowned purveyor of high-end eco-chic, is the latest in a line of hip designers commissioned by Target to translate their expensive pieces to a lower price-point. Nature-inspired palettes and relaxed silhouettes were paired with bold hues and feisty prints, giving the collection an easy, edgy vibe. The line, which included wardrobe staples like loose tanks, wrap dresses, and hoodies in addition to more dramatic wide-leg trousers and crocheted blouses, used organic cotton, bamboo, and linen, and started at just $14.99. H&M also carries an affordable organic line that enables students to save without skimping on style.

Though it relieves the burden on the environment, some eco-friendly clothing increases the toll on laborers. To make eco-chic clothing profitable, large companies might find themselves having to cut corners in other ways. It is important to remember that eco-friendly doesn’t necessarily mean worker-friendly: Some clothes given the eco-friendly stamp of approval are deplorable when it comes to labor regulations. In order to get the cheapest price and lowest turn around time, large organic operations continue to export physical labor to countries that are notoriously lax on labor laws. Levi’s is one company that puts its money where its mouth is: In addition to using organic fibers in many of its clothes, it has negotiated fair contracts with laborers. I hope that more chain stores follow this model and provide affordable clothes while having commendable ethics.

At its core, the eco-chic movement is about encouraging stylish, small-scale adjustments to stimulate a large-scale transformation. Those in the know realize that when it comes to fashion, the adage “you are what you wear” has been amended to include, “you are what you do.”

"Well-Suited" (10/14/08)

2008-10-13T14:17:00.001-07:00

Whether he aspires to the glory of manly sports or to be a dapper man-about-town, sometimes a guy needs to suit up. This can be a sticky sartorial situation.

On one hand, the suit raises the specter of bar mitzvahs, prom, and cheesy yearbook photos. There’s no question that when worn at a young age, suits can make boys look like babies trying to be men. For many young men, the suit marks the pubescent transition from sweaty to sophisticated. Despite the fact that they looked uncomfortable and uptight whenever they were forced into suits, I was delighted to see my endearingly gangly, pimpled high school classmates looking scrubbed and dapper for a change—even if my prom date did accent his crisp black suit with scuffed Chuck Taylors and enormous aviator sunglasses. You can put a boy in a suit, but the clothes don’t make the man; I’ve found that the ubiquitous yearbook photos with the somber and scholarly suit and tie always wind up making the gentleman who wears them look awkward, terrified, and somehow, even younger than his eighteen years.

On the other hand, suits are the uniform of our parents’ generation. My father has a closet full of suits purchased BCF—Before Casual Fridays. When he was applying to law school, crisp suits were as much a prerequisite as good LSAT scores.

So today, as we get ready for restaurants without drive-thrus, dinner parties that include wine in bottles instead of boxes, and scary “real-world” job interviews, the question becomes, how does a guy wear a suit without looking like either a little kid playing dress-up or a middle-aged businessman?

I posed this question to fourth-years Wayne Kang, Jay Martinez, and Sheldon Levy, three well-suited fashionistos. All three agree that the key to suit success is proper tailoring; youthful, bold accessories; and confidence to spare.

First rule of thumb: Never wear a suit right off the rack. “There’s no such thing as a suit that doesn’t need to be tailored,” explains Kang. “A tailor will check the fit across the shoulders and examine the width around the torso to make sure that the jacket closes but isn’t too loose. The reason that people look like they’re little kids wearing their dads’ suits is generally that the shoulders are too loose or that the pant legs are too wide.”

Martinez agrees. “Make sure that the suit is custom-fit for your body,” he advises. “It’s important to keep your body type in mind. Remember that there are multiple cuts of suits. For a guy with more weight around the middle, three buttons works better than two buttons.” Martinez himself just bought his first suit in celebration of his 21st birthday. He chose a three-button pinstripe suit, which lengthens his already tall frame and has an overall slimming effect.

Taking a cue from Neil Strauss’s bestselling memoir-cum-dating guide The Game, Martinez and Levy suggest that college students should “peacock” their formal outfits with pieces of flair. Martinez says that students can keep a suit from looking stuffy by jazzing it up with flashy accessories like “a paisley pocket square, a colorful tie, cool cufflinks, or even a flower.” Levy, a passionate proponent of the suit vest and fedora, believes that when worn with confidence, unique accessories draw positive attention. “It’s a confidence booster,” says Levy. “When you wear something you feel good in, people respond well, and that gives you the push to be more outgoing.” All the men agree that the suit itself should be classic and somewhat conservative. “You should generally stay away from more exotic fabrics, because as a student, you’ll only have the budget for two or three suits. Gray suits and pinstripe suits are good investments. Seersucker and linen suits are really hard to pull off—also, they scream Ivy League, yacht club, and over-preppiness,” says Kang. Adding points of visual interest to a timeless suit keeps the look fresh and age-appropriate.

Kang, Levy, and Martinez agree that confidence is the key to pulling off the look with style. By their early 20s, most men have probably only worn suits for interviews, internships, and the occasional formal event, but Kang likes to integrate pieces of his suit into his every day wardrobe by pairing the jacket with different pants and shirts. “Wearing a suit in a more casual way implies that you’re a confident, independent person who knows how to make subtle changes to be dressed appropriately for any situation,” he adds. Martinez suggests that a man can dress a suit down for more daily wear by omitting the tie or substituting a plain polo shirt for a stiff, collared one. Confidence makes it clear that you’re wearing the clothes and that they’re not wearing you.

“It’s the man, and not the [tailor], who makes his clothes, that makes a good impression,” says Kang. While intelligence, eloquence, competence, and a sense of humor will ultimately carry you much further than nicely cuffed suit pants, a sharply tailored ensemble is a powerful weapon to have in your arsenal. My arbiters of male style believe—and probably rightly so—that when they suit up and hit the field, they can tackle both potential employers and dates without looking like they just escaped from a cubicle. The combination of style and substance will never go out of fashion.

"Cradle Culture" (10/07/08)

2008-10-13T00:36:00.000-07:00

It’s no secret that fashion fetishizes youth.

Vogue’s annual “Age Issue” (August 2008) – which proposes to show readers how to be beautiful from ages seventeen to seventy – is always a reminder that younger is better. This year’s issue featured profiles of stylish, smart, savy female staffers whose ages ranged from twentysomething to seventy-plus. The self-styled spreads were supposed to help readers learn to cultivate a sense of personal style, the elusive je ne sais quoi of the fashion world. Despite the fact that the editorial focused on personal style, the clothes weren’t modeled by the women who chose them. Instead, models impersonated the Vogue writers, some of whom were former models themselves. The implication that a forty-year old former model is so over the hill that she has to be replaced by a fresh-faced newcomer was enough to make me queasy.

The ever-growing, ever-younger crop of in-demand models is a symptom of a larger “cradle culture” that covets youth. Many of the successful models walking in shows for Prada and Marc Jacobs appear practically pre-pubescent. In any given month, fashion magazines dedicates umpteen pages to celebrating – and evaluating the relative merits – of a number of miracle serums and portable fountains of youth. Coupled with some sneaky scalpel work, these procedures are able to keep readers looking their youngest.

Maybe miniskirts do look better before varicose veins take over. But in my experience, age, rather than the prevention of it, can also be a beauty secret.

At 75, my grandmother is one of the chicest women I know. Apart from her daily swims, moisturizing regimen, and religious application of sunscreen, she hasn’t taken any pains to halt the aging process. She rarely wears any makeup other than a swipe of plum lipstick, but always looks elegant, composed, and self-possessed. I don’t think that she has aged gracefully; I think it’s more accurate to say that as she has aged, she has become even more beautiful.

Since clothes fanaticism runs in my family, shopping trips are a right of passage. I remember being thrilled when I was finally invited to participate in the tradition my grandmother had long shared with her four daughters. We swap clothes and put together ensembles for one another, but my favorite part of the trip is watching the other women look at themselves in the mirror.

My mother and I purse our lips in the same way when we try on clothes. We scrutinize our bodies in the mirror, sometimes with acceptance, and sometimes with derision. Frequently, we peer incredulously at parts of our bodies that suddenly look bigger – or smaller, or lower, or wider – than we remembered. We grab uncomfortably at seams, trying to fit ourselves into pants that just aren’t right.

It’s a different story with my grandmother. Instead of grimacing, she looks calmly and patiently at her reflection, and asks us if we think that a shorter turtleneck would be more comfortable. She no longer feels the need to stuff herself into a pair of pants; she understands the value of finding clothes that fit, rather than trying to fit yourself into clothes.

In a way, her aging body beautifully and sensitively narrates the story of her busy and exciting life. Her toned legs and sun-spotted arms are products of her penchant for hiking in Morocco and Athens. Her tall frame can carry off the graphic prints she’s collected on her trips around the world. She doesn’t have time to waste on clothes that are too fussy or constricting. She wears clothes with an effortlessness that is only achieved through rejecting self-criticism and self-doubt.

My grandmother has taught me that the secrets to looking good are simple: don’t try too hard, buy the right size, and find a good tailor. Though some of the outfits she’s tried to coax me into have been pretty outrageous, the advice is sound: find clothes that let you move, and show your body without accentuating its less-than-perfect features. She’s always told me to stick away from clothes that hide my shape or fit like a second skin. The idea isn’t to look like someone else, but like the prettiest, healthiest, and happiest version of you.

Maybe by taking some lessons from the worldlier fashionistas in our lives, we can all feel more comfortable in our jeans, and in our own skin.

"Fashion Victim" (10/04/08)

2008-10-13T00:33:00.000-07:00

This summer, I escaped unscathed, but last summer, I wasn’t so lucky. A year ago, I was a Fashion Week Hostage.

I had spent the summer working in an art magazine’s Soho office, and delighted in my daily routine of spending my lunch break browsing the Prada boutique next door (followed by a frantic dash to the notoriously unglamorous Sabrett stand for a lunch that was friendly on the budget, but not on the body). Despite the fact that the greasy food turned my stomach, I was convinced that ombre pumps, feathered trenches, and structured purses nourished me more than a balanced lunch of grilled fish and steamed vegetables ever could.

I wasn’t bothered by the fact that I stood out in Prada like a Canal Street fake in an uptown Louis Vuitton. Though I worship the cult of chic, I am hardly the picture of poise. On one memorable morning last summer, I forgot an umbrella, got soaking wet, and spilled an entire cup of tea down the front of my white sundress on my way into the office. I accepted the fact that my ensembles would never resemble the concoctions featured in fashion editorials: my light-colored shirts always feature prominent pit stains, and since I can never seem to remember to hang up my linen pants instead of rolling them into a ball in my closet, my trousers are perpetually tousled. But until the models invaded my world, I thought I looked pretty ok.

Ever since I bought my first fashion magazine, I have swooned over Lily, Coco, and Sasha without ever resenting their sinewy thighs or razor-sharp clavicles. I thought of the models as lovely, fictional characters, who, like Estella Havisham or Elizabeth Bennett, were confined to distant pages. Imagine my shock when they leapt out of Elle and onto Houston street and landed safely on their Jimmy Choo-clad feet. By the beginning of September, no Manhattan street was safe.

Fashion Week has the potential to make women feel like ugly ducklings. The allure of couture is the aspect of dreamy, whimsical fantasy – impossibly high heels, impractically long dresses, inappropriately bedazzled bodices, all displayed on an incredibly beautiful human hanger. Models’ physiques and faces are also fantastical – their proportions and striking features are largely unattainable for the majority of women, save those with the bank accounts and spare time to accommodate strict exercise regimens and extensive cosmetic surgery. I was never bothered by the fact that my thigh will always be bigger than Giselle’s torso until I saw hordes of models in person. When all of the most famous models in the world gather in one place, it becomes difficult to remember that they are the genetic anomalies. When the glamazons descended upon Manhattan, I felt like I was the only non-model left in the city.

This year, I made it out just in time. My museum internship ended at the end of August, and I left New York just before Fashion Week. I watched the shows from the comfort of my couch, wearing slouchy pajamas and a decidedly unchic ponytail. Those who did score entry to the hallowed Bryant Park tents or watched the shows on tv or online saw some gorgeous presentations, and some garish ones. I lusted after Project Runway contestant Leanne’s ethereal space chic dresses. They appeared both delicate and utilitarian and seemed to draw inspiration from both organic and industrial shapes. I hope that PR judges Heidi, Michael, and Nina loved them as much as I did! Surprisingly, wunderkind sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy faltered with the collection they designed for their label, Rodarte. The brand is known for creamy confections like tiered dresses and ruffled skirts and blouses, but the new collection reads more schoolmarm than sumptuous treat. The holey spiderweb knits left me cold. Also, despite my hopeful optimism – and the best efforts of Diane von Furstenburg, president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America – many designers still failed to prominently feature black models on their runways. Rodarte and Calvin Klein used one each, and Jill Stuart used four, but dress diva Monique Lhullier and East-meets-West glam girl Vivienne Tam didn’t use any. Chicago’s Fresh Faces fashion show, presented by Gen Art, will be October 1^st, and I hope that our hometown producers and casting directors strut in the right direction.

With the models who dwarfed me and inspired my insecurity relegated to the television and computer screens, I was able to view Fashion Week for was it is: a glorious, somewhat gratuitous, opportunity to fawn over fit and fabric. Fashion is decadent but, like most things, is fine in moderation as part of an otherwise healthy lifestyle. I love New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks because they feel like Thanksgiving: a few days of delicious gluttony before returning to normal eating. I appreciate the few days of gorging on yummy designer treats while remembering that my own clothes are more mac-and-cheese than fillet mignon. That fits me just fine.

"Out of Vouge," (9/28/08)

2008-10-13T00:31:00.000-07:00

Many of us take Camus and Copernicus more seriously than couture. While there’s nothing wrong with this, we shouldn’t simply dismiss fashion as a frivolity. Fashion isn’t irrelevant, even if you’d prefer to curl up with Oscar Wilde rather than Oscar de la Renta. Fashion magazines don’t just sell purses and Prada shoes; they sell ideologies that affect both the fashion-fluent and the fashion-phobic.

Though primarily beacons of sartorial perfection, these magazines are also fascinating cultural indices. Recent issues of Vogue have – sometimes intelligently, and sometimes with laughable naiveté and political-incorrectness – explored the size and shape of racism and sexism in the fashion industry and beyond.

American Vogue’s annual “Shape” issue (May 2008) is always a half-hearted attempt to put some meat on the fashion industry’s bones. Vogue advertises fashion and fantasy, so when it attempts to infiltrate (normal-sized) reality, it’s a little hard to swallow. The magazine’s somewhat-condescending attempt to empathize with the non-skeletal leaves a bad taste in my mouth. The perfunctory acknowledgement that model bodies are an anomaly never feels genuine coming from the lips – or computer – of Editrix-in-Chief Anna Wintour, who has based her career on waif-worship. Straddling the line between reality and Photoshopped fiction, Vogue seems to want to buy the stilettos and wear them, too.

In her editor’s letter, Wintour wrote about approaching Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the dynamic sister design duo behind the brilliant and whimsical label Rodarte, with a “dream proposition”: a free, four-month diet and exercise plan. The Mulleavys, who probably wore a size 12 before Anna’s intervention, shrugged off the magazine’s claim that this plan would give them “peace of mind and the energy to prosper,” suggesting instead that Wintour simply found their size incongruous with their fashion stature. Even when Vogue shines the spotlight on normal-sized women, the subtext reads loud and clear: “We only accept non-model bodies when they’re on their way to being thin!”

This year’s issue bit off way more than it could chew when editors chose the cover shot featuring athlete LeBron James and model Giselle Bündchen. These two seem like inappropriate cover choices for an issue that purports to celebrate non-homogenized shapes: they each embody limited gendered ideals of beauty – James as the masculine muscleman, and Bündchen as the fragile female.

The disturbing photo also arouses poignant connotations of ugly racism. The composition references the iconography of vintage film posters for the movie King Kong, depicting a primal, savage brute capturing a beautiful woman. James is screaming or growling, his face contorted into a menacing scowl, while lithe Bündchen, beaming in an effervescent green evening gown, slips out of his grasp. Photographer Annie Liebovitz portrayed James as big, violent, and scary, a trope of black masculinity that should have gone out of style decades ago.

Had the magazine acknowledged and problematized these themes, the cover choice could have been a clever way of inviting readers to re-examine historical and contemporary racial stereotypes. Since the writers failed to critically engage these topics, the Shape issue was less a celebration of diverse bodies than a sad statement on the size and shape of intolerance in the fashion industry.

The June 2008 issue of American Vogue featured another shocking shoot, entitled “From Here to Timbuktu.” The editorial, featuring stunner Liya Kebede, was shot in Mali. Author Sally Singer wrote that the city was like “a sandbox at the end of the Earth,” a type of exotic playground for Westerners. Singer described the local children’s “East meets West” style as something reminiscent of a “Dries van Noten catwalk.” Attempting to establish a similarity between carefully-styled eclecticism and the mis-matched clothing necessitated by poverty revealed extreme cultural primitivism and the author’s shockingly-cavalier insensitivity to a world beyond the runway.

The fashion news isn’t all fatalistic. In July, as tech-heads waited in line for the new iPhone, fashionistas braved the well-heeled crowd to snag a copy of Italian Vogue’s all-black issue, a response to the whitewashed catwalks. Every editorial in the coveted issue featured a cast of black beauties including icons Naomi, Tyra, Liya, Alek, and Iman, and gorgeous newcomers Jourdan Dunn, Arlenis Sosa, and Chanel Iman. Charismatic Chanel is finally mainstream and down-market as one of the fresh faces of the Gap’s fall line.

The fashion spreads, shot by renowned photographers including Steven Meisel, mostly managed to avoid reductive tropes of “blackness,” and at times even investigated the meaning of “ethnic” beauty, such as the thoughtful and challenging shoot that subverted the notion of “blackface.” The magazine also embraced bigger beauty, including a gorgeous spread featuring full-figured model Toccara Jones, of America’s Next Top Model fame. Though the features were fabulous, the ads separating them – for brands like Dior, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana – included only white models, which only emphasized the extent to which black models are still a rarity in the fashion world.

Fall means it’s time for cardigans, boots, and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. I’m looking forward to seeing some of my favorite designers – especially Philip Lim – flex their creative muscles when New York City’s Bryant Park is overtaken by the fabulously fashionable on September 5^th. I’m also excited to see whether the runways will be diverse enough to begin to redeem some of Ms. Wintour’s recent plus-sized faux-pas. I hope that this year’s Fashion Week will show that the size and shape of fashionable things to come is larger and more colorful.