"Beach Bodies" (05/22/09)

Summer is not a good season to be a tabloid junkie. While I love gobbling up all the gossip about Brangelina’s ever-expanding brood, I could do without the dozens of glossy pages depicting the best and worst “beach bodies.” Everybody and every body gets panned, from the too slender (Whitney Port) to the too rotund (Angelica Huston, who is still svelte at almost-sixty).

This week, Star harassed everyone who bared it on the beach, from waif-like reality star Whitney Port to super-muscular tennis star Serena Williams. When even the most toned bodies are being criticized for the smallest patch of cellulite, it’s tempting to keep my much-more-ample figure fully clothed. But the size and shape of your body matters a lot less than the size and shape of your suit. If you pick a suit that suits your body, there’s no reason not to feel comfortable on the beach this summer.

Even if you’re years out of high school, go nostalgic and order a suit from Delia’s, the teen emporium. The catalog-and-web site company offers a wide variety of suits for diverse body types. Mix-and-match suits allow you to go skimpy on the bottom and supportive on top. Tall girls can pick out pretty suits made to fit long torsos. Best of all, most styles come in sizes XS–XL. After a traumatic top-losing incident a few summers ago, I am a proponent of one-piece styles. This year, I’m hoping to get the Black-and-White Boy Short One-Piece, which is a halter-top suit with a built-in shelf bra and modest leg line ($44). The classic silhouette reminds me of iconic twentieth-century glamazons like Marilyn Monroe. It’s playful and sexy and provides enough coverage to make me feel comfortable.

Victoria’s Secret also sells sexy swimwear, and despite its reputation for catering only to bodacious beauties, anybody can be beach-ready in one of their numerous cuts of swimsuits. In addition to barely-there bikinis, the company makes tankinis, one-pieces, and monokinis (cut-out one-pieces). Busty bathers can get all the coverage they need in tops in D–DD. Modest, slimming one-pieces are stylish with ruching detailing. Bikini sets start at $29, and mix-and-match separates start at $15.

For high-end beachwear, fashionistas head to Everything But Water, a one-stop swim shop that features suits by eminent clothing labels like Betsey Johnson, Kenneth Cole, and Michael Kors. The suits come in figure-flattering cuts like boy-cut and skirted bottoms for those who would rather keep their lower body under wraps. One-piece styles even come in boat-neck versions, which elongate short torsos or hide upper-body stretch marks. While I don’t think anyone should be encouraged to hide their (highly subjective) physical “flaws,” I commend these brands for making suits intended to make women feel most comfortable.

If you’re not excited to bare all on the beach, another alternative is to throw on a cute cover-up. Beachwear doesn’t have to consist of big, bleached T-shirts. J.Crew has an entire line devoted to cute beach cover-ups that can go from shore to store. Light-colored linen pants are lightweight and crisp, and when paired with a black cami, chunky wooden necklace, and simple leather sandals, are effortless and elegant ($48). Forever 21 has cheap and chic maxi dresses in batik prints adorned with beads, which capitalize on the safari trend ($18–$24).

I wish I could bring myself to put the tabloids away until fall, but I won’t—what if Brangelina adopts another baby in the interim? Instead, I’ll try to ignore all of the body-snarking (honestly, I dream of looking as great as Angelica Huston at 57), and remember that a body-conscious swimsuit can make any day a trip to the beach.

Photo credit: Photo of Jordan Dexter and Alex Long by Shahzad Ahsan, The Maroon

"Sizing Up Fashion's Fascination with the Petite" (05/12/09)

It’s no secret that fashion is obsessed with the miniature, such as waif-like models and short shorts with a half-inch inseam. However, on Saturday night, students who gathered in Hutch Courtyard to celebrate the beginning of the Festival of the Arts (FOTA) were greeted by a larger-than-life fashionable figure: “Gigantic Fashion,” a monumental eleven-foot dress designed by fourth-year Michal Lynn Shumate.

Shumate’s gargantuan garment was inspired by her knowledge of fashion’s love of the tiny. An art history major, Shumate just completed a thesis paper about fashion installations in which she discussed the House of Victor and Rolf’s presentation of their most famous designs on porcelain dolls in a gigantic doll house.

Also curious about fashion’s caricature of the large and ostentatious, such as enormous hoop skirts and opulent headdresses, Shumate wondered how dramatic changes in scale would affect the perception and reception of a garment. Clearly, when it comes to fashion, size matters. “Clothes are supposed to be worn. It’s not a painting,” Shumate pointed out. Generally, viewers are able to imagine themselves in the clothes because the items are scaled to the (granted, unrealistic and idealized) proportions of the human body. Shumate was curious about what happens to a viewer’s perception of clothes when the items are so clearly unwearable and fantastical.

Shumate’s enormous dress required Herculean effort to make. The circumference of the dress’s large skirt measures 20.6 yards, and the whole outfit required more than 42 yards of fabric. The project required 50 hours of sewing, almost three times as long as it took Shumate, who has designed for FOTA and MODA fashion shows before, to create human-sized ensembles. While constructing the dress was extremely time-intensive, Shumate faced other difficulties as well. “Working on the project was difficult because every time I wanted to work on it, I had to find a space large enough to accommodate all of the fabric,” she said. “If I wanted to spread out the fabric, I had to have a room-sized space.”

Working on the dress presented the problem of how to maintain a high level of craftsmanship while working on such a large scale. “Quite a bit of math was involved,” Shumate said. “I had to make X and Y-axes to figure out where to put things, and had to plot points along the edge of the pattern.”

Once the dress was finished, Shumate faced the trying task of figuring out how to display her mega-sized project. Fourth-year Katherine Greenleaf, who works as a scenic designer for University Theater, designed and constructed a structure to hold up and stabilize the garment. The dress is displayed on an adapted human frame constructed out of a lumber box, plastic bags, and a rough armature of a bust and torso to create the allusion of an hourglass shape. The faux-hoop skirt is made from rubber tubing.

Perhaps the most nerve-wracking aspect of the production was its final phase—installation in Hutch Courtyard. Because of the space limitations imposed by the garment’s size, Shumate had never seen her creation in its standing position until the end of the seven-hour installation process. “It was too tall to erect in the studio where I was working,” she said. “I knew that the measurements should be right, but I wasn’t positive everything would come together.”

Despite the stressful situation, Shumate kept calm, which was a welcome change for a designer accustomed to anxiety before a show. “The experience was much different from doing a fashion show, because my nerves eased up as the project went on,” she said. “With a fashion show, I’m too nauseous and nervous to eat the day of, and it takes a full day to recover. Once I started installing [the dress] and realized that it could be done, I relaxed.”

Shumate says that one of the biggest challenges she faces as a designer is combating the accusation that fashion is either “frivolous, or stuffy and boring.” With her intelligent, immense project, Shumate proves that big style and big smarts create big, beautiful results.

Photo credit: Tom Tian, The Maroon

"Trash and Treasure" (05/05/09)

Last summer, scavenging for curbside treasures became part of my morning routine. The loft I sublet in New York’s Union Square neighborhood happened to be right next to a theater company. Every morning as I strolled down the street to get my breakfast bagel, I would stop to check out their dumpster. The theater was doing a huge renovation and was tossing out some gorgeous seats and parts of old sets. My roommate and I salvaged some of the choice pieces, which were slightly flawed but far too appealing to be left in the trash heap. Our finds were “shabulous”—the perfect combination of shabby and fabulous.

Unfortunately, shipping some of the items back to Chicago was out of the question, and I had to leave them behind. However, upon coming back, I was pleasantly surprised to find that there is plenty of awesome abandoned furniture to be saved right here in Hyde Park. May and June are major months for yard sales, which means great deals for students shopping on a budget. Here are some tips for rescuing furniture from the refuse pile.

Sleep in and Score:

Hawkeyed early birds will rise at the crack of dawn to bag the best items, but these early finds will be out of a student’s price range anyway. Go later in the day when the pickings are slimmer and the prices lower. As the sale winds down, sellers who don’t want to drag the unsold merchandise back inside will often lower the price to get it off their hands. If you arrive right at the end of the sale, some items may be discarded and up for grabs. Last spring, my roommate and I picked up a massive leather couch, an antique secretary desk, a computer table, and a chest of drawers, all of which we got for free at the end of yard sales. These unsold items may be a little rough around the edges, but with a little T.L.C., you can get them back in shape.

Pile on the Paint:

Take a trashed table from shabby to chic with a fresh coat of paint. When refurbishing a table or desk, it’s easier to go for a darker rather than lighter color because you can useW less paint. A coat of matte or glossy black paint can lend contemporary sophistication to a simple silhouette, such as a bold square end table. If you are reluctant to paint the entire piece of furniture, think about sprucing up the surface with some stencils. Affordable stencil patterns are available at any craft store, such as Blick on State Street.

You could also create a personalized keepsake by using decoupage to affix photographs, postcards, or drawings to the furniture’s surface. My distressed old desk got a facelift when I covered the surface with beautiful postcards my friends and family had sent me from their trips around the world. Decoupage is a more permanent technique than painting: You can’t paint over it, and it’s difficult to get the items off. However, it’s the quickest, easiest, and least messy way to take your furniture from battered to beautiful.

Add Drama with Drawer Pulls:

Don’t leave an item behind because it’s missing drawer handles or knobs. Instead, take the opportunity to bring an outmoded piece up-to-date with stylish decorative knobs. When I worked at Anthropologie, I swooned over the delicate porcelain knobs with dainty floral patterns. Even if the item you rescue from the garbage heap has its knobs intact, think about switching them out in order to make the piece fit with the rest of your furniture.

Things to Avoid:

In order to score a great piece of furniture, you’ve got to do a little detective work. Be wary of suspicious smells—no matter how heavily you Febreze a piece of furniture, if it reeks when you buy it, it will stink up your apartment. Similarly, if you’re scoring a piece of furniture you found lying out on the street, examine it for water stains; it may have gotten wet and become moldy.

As the adage says, one person’s trash is another person’s treasure. With these tips, you’ll be prepared to take your loot from dilapidated to dreamy. Happy hunting!

"Fashion and the Less-Fair Sex" (04/28/09)

There’s a question that’s been bothering me ever since President Obama was criticized by some conservative circles for sitting at his desk in the Oval Office without a suit jacket: What are the standards for men’s fashion? For me, the question becomes even more mind-boggling when it comes to dressing for spring and summer temperatures. Sure, men can go shirtless and wear jean shorts and flip-flops. But should they?

Fashion-forward women know that new trends spring up each season. Wearing last year’s tough gladiator sandals with this year’s demure Liberty print floral dresses is a faux pas. While I know how to forecast seasonal trends for women, I’m totally clueless when it comes to guessing how men should dress for the warmer weather. I turned to stylish third-year Sam Chereskin to help lay down some ground rules for looking cool as the weather warms up.

I’m an advocate of eschewing seasonal trends in favor of creating a personal style. The guys seem to be with me on this one. Chereskin points out that while the style of women’s clothing changes every season with fleeting trends, men’s style is consistently based around a set of timeless styles and cuts. “Usually, seasonal iterations by designers only reflect variations on a theme,” Chereskin says. He favors brands like Kenneth Cole and Calvin Klein, who both produce tailored, tried-and-true staples that can be mixed and matched to create a look that marries casual comfort with elegance.

Summer is synonymous with sandals, but flip-flops can’t go from beach to boardroom. While they’re totally acceptable when you’re lounging outside, sandals look totally out of place when you’re leading a presentation. If you’re wearing a dress shirt and pants, you’re too dressed up to be wearing flip-flops. If you work in a creative environment where employees dress down in jeans and T-shirts, you might be able to pull off simple Havaianas in basic black. Otherwise, go conservative in leather loafers and super-low socks.

Even if you know where to wear sandals, you still face the considerable problem of figuring out how to wear them. There is no scenario in which the combination of socks and sandals is anything other than a misstep. As Chris Rovy, fashion correspondent for the style-savvy website AskMen.com, points out, the point of wearing sandals is to air our your feet after a long, sweaty, stinky winter of being shoved into thick socks.

On a scorching summer day, it’s tempting to want to show some skin. When it comes to shorts, how short is too short? Don’t flash any thigh. “Almost all men’s shorts options, I think, exist in a two-inch margin of error around the knee. I tend to wear shorts at it or above it,” Chereskin says. Calf-length shorts look sophomoric and skater-boy, rather than sophisticated. Chereskin also suggests that if you’re going to show some leg, you should make sure you’re choosing a classy fabric. Linen or khaki shorts are great options, but “denim shorts are a no on all occasions,” Chereskin says.

To tuck or not to tuck? How do you wear summer shirts without looking sloppy? “Don’t tuck in your t-shirt without an overshirt,” Chereskin says. Tucking in a polo shirt is advisable only at a country club. If you’re not on the golf course, stick to styles that don’t require tucking. Stores like the Gap and Old Navy sell affordable, body-conscious crew neck and v-neck shirts that look polished without looking too preppy. For a sleeker look, you can tuck in a button-down, but “you need a good-looking belt to make it work,” Chereskin says.

While I still don’t fully understand the reasoning that the President needs to be wearing a suit and tie in order to convey respect for the weight of his job, I am starting to get a grip on the politics of men’s fashion. Ultimately, it seems that looking great is a matter of self-confidence and intuition. “I feel that being well put together, or well dressed, is as simple as making sure that you are wearing your clothes and that they are not wearing you,” Chereskin says. That attitude is always en vogue.

"Shape Shifters" (04/14/09)

When a nude Beth Ditto graced the cover of the February debut issue of Love, the new U.K. based Conde Nast publication, I hoped that Vogue editor Anna Wintour would take the hint.

Ditto, the obese lead singer of The Gossip, beat out skeletal supermodels Agyness Deyn, Raquel Zimmermann, and Kate Moss, as well as fellow singers Iggy Pop and Courtney Love, to land the coveted spot on the cover of the premiere, icon-themed issue. Despite the generally dismal state of publication sales, the issue sold well, a fact that I hoped boded well for Wintour as spring—and Vogue’s infamous “Shape” issue—approached. Maybe seeing the big success of a sister publication could tip the scales for Wintour and her infamous obsession with slenderness.

Unfortunately, this year’s edition of Vogue’s annual “Shape” issue was another plus-sized flop. The magazine, which hit news stands in April, fails to register as anything other than a pejorative, perfunctory nod to political correctness.

The cover, featuring beautiful Beyonce, was splashed with incongruous claims, at once declaring that “Real Women Have Curves” and offering readers a chance to “Work It!” for “Longer Legs, Leaner Lines, and a Sexier Silhouette.” Other cover lines advertised “Fashion for Every Figure, from Size 0 to Size 20,” as well as a feature on plastic surgery and “Designing the Perfect Body.” The offensive implication is that bodies only exist in sizes 0–20. Stores like Banana Republic have petite sections, which carry to the most diminutive figures, like size 00. Torrid, Hot Topic’s plus-size sister store, carries angsty apparel up to size 28, and Lane Bryant sells dainty dresses in sizes 14–32. Even its half-hearted attempts to be inclusive reveal that Vogue doesn’t really believe in fashion for everybody, but only some bodies.

As soon as the cover was leaked by celebrity blogger Perez Hilton on March 13, the feminist blogosphere was up in arms. Commenters on Jezebel, a feminist pop culture blog, railed against the magazine’s description of “real” women. One commenter suggested that “to imply that curves make a ‘real woman’ does injustice to women who aren’t so curvy, and can be just as damaging to women’s self-esteem as the super-skinny standard.” By setting up a category of “real women,” with its own eligibility standards and size limitations, Vogue adds insult to injury for those women who already feel inadequate in comparison to the models who usually grace the pages of the glossy magazine. If a woman is neither a model nor a “real” woman, based on the limiting Vogue standard, what is she? Vogue seems to think that she is either entirely unfathomable, or not worth acknowledging.

Things didn’t fare much better inside the issue. The magazine profiled women with specific body types: thin, curvy, short, tall, and athletic. I was nauseated by writer Sarah Mower’s affectionate quip that sisters Charlotte Gainsburg and Lou Doillon “treat being thin like a birthright.” The gamine girls, daughters of skinny-style icon Jane Birkin, are thrilled to be thin. The pair, who are actresses, occasional models, and, in Charlotte’s case, an accomplished singer-songwriter, are quoted as saying that they’re psyched to be slender because “it’s great for dressing.” The two young mothers both agree that they “hated” their post-pregnancy bodies and couldn’t wait to lose the weight. Even in an issue dedicated to bodies of all shapes and sizes, the writer suggests that clothes look best on super-slender frames.

Pixie-sized pals Olivia Thirlby and Zoe Kravitz are featured as girls who manage to be both small and stylish. Thirlby, an actress best known for her roles in Juno and The Wackness, and Kravitz, a pseudo-actress-cum-musician best known for her social schmoozing and her rocker dad, Lenny, are both approximately five-foot-three. The magazine claims that this height “imposes fashion limits.” Five-three is only really remarkably short in comparison to supermodels’ Amazonian stature. Portraying the beautiful, slender girls as facing severe sartorial challenges just goes to show the extent to which Vogue’s standards are relative and un-relatable.

L’Wren Scott and Doutzen Kroes were used to illustrate tall and athletic bodies, respectively. The thing is, for both women, these attributes weren’t fashion challenges, but the pre-requisites to successful modeling careers.

Cute crooner Adele was the representative of the “curvy” girls. The article spent most of the time chronicling her much-lauded musical career, but the accompanying picture was disturbing. Her picture was also the only one in which the shape of her body is obscured: she’s lying at an angle that flattens her body into the bed, and wearing clothes that camouflage her figure. Skinny Doilan’s lithe legs are prominent in her picture, and Scott dramatically drapes her long body across a chaise lounge. The fact that Adele was positioned in a way that didn’t show off her lovely figure only goes to show the degree to which Vogue’s “Shape” issue really takes issue with many kinds of shapes.

Ditto’s cover wasn’t enough to get Wintour to see the big picture. It’s going to take more to convince her that everybody and every body can be beautiful.

"Traveling Light" (04/07/09)

Much of my spring break was spent taking notes in airport terminals and snoozing in train stations. I took a working vacation to the East Coast, where I waded through archives and visited friends along the way. My research turned up some great information for my B.A., and my experience traveling solo on a student’s budget forced me to learn how to travel efficiently without sacrificing my style and, more importantly, my sanity.

Size Matters

As I struggled to drag my stuffed suitcase up the perilously steep steps of the hostel I stayed at in D.C., I was partially relieved that my baggage was only carry-on sized. If your bag is big enough to check, it’s far too big to haul all over the city. If you’re traveling on a student’s budget, chances are you’ll be taking buses and trains rather than cabs, so you’ll continually have to wrestle with your unwieldy belongings. Another advantage to the carry-on is the peace of mind that comes from always knowing that your bags will arrive with you, which is particularly important were you to make a mad dash for your connecting gate after your incoming flight is late. It was (almost) easy to sprint through LaGuardia to make my next flight with my rolling suitcase bouncing behind me.

Size also matters when it comes to beauty products. I learned this lesson the hard way last year when my favorite fancy lotion was tossed at the security check in O’Hare. If you’re heading out of town for a week or less, the travel-sized products at drugstores will carry you through. To save even more room in your cosmetics bag, opt for products that do double-duty. I swear by Vaseline lotion with aloe and cucumber ($1 per fluid ounce), which nourishes and moisturizes my skin and has a light, fresh scent that I use in lieu of my liquid perfume, which I leave safely in my bathroom at home. Smith’s Rosebud Salve ($6) is a multi-purpose lipbalm with a cult following and is an indispensable beauty aid for travelers. While I use it on my lips for a non-sticky shine, some of my friends use it to soothe cracked hands and cuticles and even as moisturizer for aching or blistered feet. This is one item I would never leave home without

Easy Access

Because I am fanatical about carrying all my notebooks and papers around with me, my carry-on tote bag was jam-packed throughout the break. Much to the chagrin of the businessman behind me in the security line, I had to unpack my entire bag in order to remove my laptop from its case. He started groaning and complaining under his breath when he noticed that I was struggling to undo the zipper on my boots. Well-traveled passengers like him breezed through security with streamlined, well-organized briefcases and easy-off loafers while I was waddling to the nearest bench with my boots half-off, trying to stuff my belongings back into my bag. Next time I travel, I’ll ditch my boots in favor of cute leather ballet flats from Aldo, which I can slip off for the security check. I’ll stash my laptop in a bright Vera Bradley case with handles so I can tote it to the checkpoint without having to frantically rummage through my bags.

Layer Up

Traveling in layers makes room in your suitcase and also helps you combat chilly airplane cabins. I’m fearful of flying and like to be asleep before the plane takes off so I don’t crush the hand of the unsuspecting passenger next to me. I can sleep easy when I’m swaddled in a chic scarf that serves alternately as a throw and a safety blanket. Fashionistas can choose the luxe cashmere blend variety at department stores, but I like the $5 pashminas I scored in New York’s Chinatown last summer. They’re pretty and patterned, so after I’ve gotten some shut-eye, I can drape them over a cardigan for a relaxed spring look.

Traveling is stressful—you have to endure long lines, frustrating delays, and public transportation systems seemingly designed by someone with a sinister sense of humor. While getting tired and lost is probably inevitable, with a little organization and light packing, you can at least arrive in one stylish piece.

"Spring Fashion Forecast" (03/10/09)

Chicago weather is notoriously unpredictable. It might be sunny one day, and snowing the next. Spring’s fashion forecast is just as polarized: while some looks are fresh, others are better left buried under a foot of snow.

Though it’s not yet time to happily shove winter wear to the back of the closet, spring has almost sprung. Chicago weather is notoriously unpredictable. It might be sunny one day, and snowing the next. This season’s fashion forecast is just as polarized: while some looks are fresh, others are better left buried under a foot of snow. After scouting spring clothes in stores and on the runways, here are my picks for the most trendy and most terrible looks of the season.

Trendy: Cloudy-day Chic

April showers bring May flowers, but that doesn’t mean you want to get caught in the storm. Brighten up a rainy day with some sunny, waterproof accessories. Brooklyn-based design duo Toni Hacker and Benjamin Harnett, the pair behind the Hayden-Harnett line, have teamed up with Target to create a line of affordable handbags and accessories. While I love almost everything by the cult-favorite brand, the delicate parasol from their Target collection is a standout success. The delicate umbrella is shaped almost like a raindrop, and features bright red, yellow, and blue graphics of textured leaves ($22, www.target.com).

You’ll be singing in the rain when you stomp down the street in Hunter’s Royal Horticultural Society rain boots. The British company, known for their wet-weather wares, partnered with the Horticultural Society to make a line of boots emblazoned with botanical drawings. I love the cheery, feminine knee-high boots featuring images of peaches. These shoes almost make me look forward to puddle-filled days ($68, www.zappos.com).

Terrible: Jumpsuits

One-piece looks were all over the spring fashion shows, and while the slinky satin jumpsuits were sleek at Derek Lam, Dries von Noten, and Diane von Furstenburg, these looks don’t look so sophisticated when translated from the runway to the real world. The outlandish disco-queen outfits are both impractical (going to the bathroom has never been such a hassle!) and unflattering when taken from the showroom to the street. On humid days, these clingy looks will look wrinkled and wilted. Best to chalk this style up to artistic imagination and shop elsewhere.

Trendy: Frontier Fashion

Luella and Marc Jacobs were thinking home on the range for spring, outfitting their models in stripes, faded floral prints, and plaid linen sundresses. If you don’t want to dress like a Laura Ingalls Wilder character, steer clear of quilted skirts and fringed suede vests, and opt for more subtle prairie-inspired accessories. Instead of wearing this trend from head to toe, use individual pieces to accent wardrobe staples like jeans and a tee. Gap and Forever 21 carry lightweight checked scarves ($9-$30) that will help you look pretty, instead of like a pioneer.

Terrible: Skeletal Styles

Rodarte and Alexander McQueen brought skeletons out of the closet for spring when they featured skeleton-inspired prints and silhouettes on the runway. McQueen’s silk-blend jacket features a print reminiscent of the spinal cord and vertebrae. McQueen’s leather toe-detail pumps are totally creepy: the beige pumps would be classic and charming, if they didn’t feature five toe-shaped indentations right where the toes lie in the shoe. The result isn’t fashionable, but freaky. At Rodarte, a barely-there bodice featured strips of silk draped in the pattern of a rib cage, including extra-thick strips serving as the sternum and clavicle. Given the fashion industry’s historical fetish for the skeletally-thin, it seems totally tasteless to capitalize on styles that celebrate this anatomy.

The fashion forecast for spring is only partly cloudy. While some of spring’s biggest looks are bleak, others are bright. Stock up on fresh rain gear and flirty frontier florals, and skip fashion flops like jumpsuits and skeleton-inspired styles. Chicago will be overcast and gray for a few more months, so choose clothes that will put some sunshine into spring.

"Cent-Savy Showcase Proves Moda's Mind on the Money" (03/03/09)

The recent Fall 2009 collections presented at New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week raised questions about how lavishness can coexist with layoffs. Some people suggested that with the economy in crisis, celebrating outlandish luxury was in poor taste. Though some designers, like James Mischka of design duo Badgley Mischka, continued to prioritize extravagant designs over more economical ensembles, others decided to scale back. Some houses opted to stage static tableaus instead of costlier runway shows, and notorious party boys Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen canceled their fabulous fetes.

Here at the U of C, fashion fiends are struggling with a similar question: How can you celebrate luxury when so many people are struggling to make ends meet? MODA’s fifth annual spring fashion show provides some answers. You can be cheaply chic by using unconventional fabrics, small budgets, and vintage inspirations. The designers whose work will be featured in “Recessionista: A Lesson in Fashion Efficiency” this Friday use their collections to showcase keen social consciousness and an awareness of fashion’s place in today’s world.

The show will feature work by members of MODA’s Designer Boot Camp (DBC), a year-long designing program that helps students take their ideas from sketches to collections. Other student designers and DBC alumni will also present their work, as will professional Chicago-based designers Alice Barry and Annie Novotny of Frei Designs. Student models will strut their stuff in front of scouts from Elite modeling agency. Attendees will get the VIP treatment with appetizers, drinks, goodie bags stuffed with treats from sponsors like LUSH and Teen Vouge, and performances by dance group Rhythmic Bodies in Motion and emerging hip-hop artist Alex Ludovico.

I asked four student designers, now putting the finishing touches on their collections, for some tips about recession-proofing your wardrobe.

Tip 1: Find Inspiration in Unexpected Places

Former student and current designer Michal Lynn Shumate turns grandma’s trash into trendy treasure. Shumate uses discarded domestic items like dust ruffles and doilies to create distinctively retro silhouettes. She believes that recession-friendly clothing should still look like a million bucks. “I think the fact that the dress is made from recycled materials should be secondary. First, it should be a pretty dress,” says Shumate. Her impeccable craftsmanship transforms items that once lay forgotten in a linen closet into elegant accents. Colorful ruffles adding volume to a gingham dress don’t betray their origins as dust ruffles, and lace accenting the bustline on a white frock looks too delicate to have once been part of a tablecloth. Shumate’s beautifully-tailored floral dresses are actually made from pillow cases she picked up at a vintage shop. The result of Shumate’s domestic re-design: It’s haute in the kitchen when domestic textiles go chic.

Tip 2: Rethink Retro

DBC designer Jetty-Jane Connor revamps retro styles, embellishing ’50s-style frocks with funky zippers and other accents that add an androgynous edge to feminine silhouettes. Marc Jacobs shares this aesthetic, but you can get the same look on a dime by adding edgy elements like broaches, zippers, or trim to thrift-store finds. Adding contemporary accents to vintage looks will prevent you from looking stuck in the wrong decade; you’ll look trendy, not out of touch.

Student designer Julian Owens also works with a vintage aesthetic. Owens is fascinated by the costumes worn by early R&B groups like the Supremes. His collection outfits three female “singers” and a male “manager” in glittery getups ready to take center stage. Owens’s bejeweled designs reference the economizing practice of dressing groups in “uniforms.” “It was more cost-effective for bands to dress alike than for everyone to wear a separate outfit,” says Owens. If you’re a performer aching for the spotlight, take a cue from Owens and opt for decorating your own duds instead of splurging on costly costumes.

Tip 3: Opt for Affordable Artistry

DBC designer Jillian Marshall’s collection is more couture than casual—these are not pieces you’d want to wear to class—but her clothes are evidence that beauty doesn’t have to break the bank. Marshall’s pieces are inspired by some of her artistic icons, including composer Piotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and painter Vassily Kandinsky. Marshall also found inspiration in the elegant arabesques found on traditional East Asian dresses such as kimonos. “These clothes were created on an extremely tight budget, which in light of the ‘recessionista’ theme, shows that being artistic doesn’t have to be expensive,” Marshall says. If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind outfit, remember that couture doesn’t have to be costly.

In light of the current fiscal crisis, it’s refreshing to see student designers embracing the notion that fashion and frivolity don’t go hand in hand. Shumate, Connor, Owens, Marshall, and their fellow designers show that fashion doesn’t have to recede along with the economy. Despite Posen and Jacobs’s canceled festivities, when it comes to creative, affordable fashion, the party is far from over.

"Style Stars" (02/24/09)

Though the Academy Awards are touted as an opportunity to celebrate the year’s most extraordinary achievements in film, the ceremony is also an opportunity to nominate actors, directors, and the odd sound technician for the category of Best Performance in Red Carpet Couture. While some starlets showed up at the fete dressed to impress, others faltered in their fashion choices, choosing gaudy get-ups over glamorous gowns. Fellow fashionista Nathalie Gorman helped me choose the sartorial winners and losers on the red carpet.

DO: Keep it classy

The ever-beautiful Diane Lane set the standard for Oscars elegance Sunday night. Lane attended the ceremony with her husband, Josh Brolin, nominated in the Best Supporting Actor category for his performance in Milk. Though she wasn’t nominated for an award, Lane looked like a winner in an expertly-tailored Dolce & Gabbana gown. While her sweetheart-necked black tulle ensemble is not the flashiest getup, it is a no-fail red carpet outfit. Lane’s sophisticated, tousled updo and minimal diamond accessories elegantly complemented her simple silhouette. The result is timeless red-carpet glamour.

DO: Dress like Oscar

Many starlets, including funny girl Tina Fey and first-time nominee Anne Hathaway, channeled the little guy with body-hugging metallics. Fey looked radiant in an iridescent cap-sleeved, V-necked dress with copper-colored paillettes and a mermaid train. Although she didn’t take home a golden statue this year, Anne Hathaway looked statuesque herself in a sequined, white Armani Privé fishtail dress.

DON’T: Wear the carpet

How can you pose for your adoring public and paparazzi if your dress is indistinguishable from the red carpet? It’s hard to rock the rug when it looks like you’re wearing it. Virginia Madsen, formerly nominated for her performance in Sideways, went wrong when she chose a belted, strapless number in the same crimson shade as the carpet. While the geometric, architectural structure of the dress was a welcome change from a sea of gauzy pastels, the dress would have been more ravishing in a hue that wasn’t camouflaged against the carpet.

While patterns can be elegant and exciting on the red carpet, stylish stars should steer clear of dresses that look like upholstery. Though she later stripped down to a red sequined leotard for her show-stopping musical performance, songstress Beyoncé Knowles walked the carpet in a gaudy black-and-gold floral number that was better suited for a loveseat than a star-studded event. The garish pattern, reminiscent of a tacky couch cover or wallpaper, should never have left the house.

DO: Load up on layers

The red carpet was so full of women wearing varying shades of cream and ecru, you’d almost swear it was a mass wedding. But, among the many swans (no, Björk was not there), Marisa Tomei, in a Versace dress with a massive pleated skirt and train, stood out from the flock. The dress rose from the ground in a series of thick, complex, interlocking folds layered on top of one another, to a simple satin bodice with a soft, delicate one-shouldered neckline. The lightness of the dress’s top, combined with Tomei’s wavy up-do, set off the heavy, sharp skirt.

Less modern but more subtly original was Taraji P. Henson’s beautiful cream-colored Roberto Cavalli gown. From far away, it looked as if it were entirely made of taffeta. The close-up revealed layers of different fabrics, each a slightly different shade of cream. These layers made the tone of the dress shift subtly under the lights; the ruffled skirt, with all its texture, looked very sophisticated.

Finally, Penelope Cruz’s vintage Balmain dress, made of stiff embroidered fabric and soft shirred chiffon, was spectacular. Paired with a strand of diamonds strung like pearls, the dress made Cruz look like a fairy-tale princess—an appropriate choice for the night her Oscar fairy tale came true.

DON’T: Look like Barbie

Once upon a time, many of the women who showed up on the red carpet last night probably dressed up their Barbies in shiny dresses for an imaginary Oscar night. Unfortunately, a few of the actresses walking the red carpet seemed not to realize that the clothes in which they once dressed their dolls were not ideal evening attire for themselves as well.

Viola Davis’s gown was completely flattering to her figure, but the color and fabric made it look tacky. She is genuinely beautiful and talented; it’s a shame she showed up in a dress that really made her look like a little girl playing dress-up. Speaking of which, Miley Cyrus showed up looking like a ridiculous snowflake, in a jewel-encrusted dress cinched at the waist by a belt that looked so plastic it might have come right off the assembly line at Mattel. If Davis and Cyrus had wanted to do something colorful and sparkly, they should have taken a cue from Amy Adams, whose bright red Carolina Herrera gown and enormous multicolored necklace by Fred Leighton were both adventurous and genuinely grown-up.

Whether you’re looking to dress for the red carpet or just for a night on the town, take some style suggestions from the style winners and losers at the Academy Awards. Leave your dolls and tacky upholstery at home, and slip into something intricate, classic, and figure-flattering. Tim Gunn may not be around to swoon over your ensemble, but you’ll still join the ranks of the style stars.

"Weave Through Wicker Park for Winning Wares" (02/17/09)

As much as I love mega home-décor chains like IKEA and Crate and Barrel, there’s something to be said for decorating your place with unique items that feel more distinctly personal. Though you often can’t beat chain-store prices, their mass-produced items tend to feel sterile and ordinary. Likewise, though I like accessories from stores like Forever 21, I wish I could personalize the baubles and charms that go on my bracelets and necklaces to reflect certain things that mean something to me. With this in mind, I traveled to Wicker Park to find some one-of-a-kind, whimsical items to add some warmth and personality to my space and wardrobe.

When I stopped by the eclectic Elevenzees boutique (1901 West Division Street) on Valentine’s Day, I was greeted with a slice of cake and a glass of champagne. Though this celeb treatment might be reserved for special occasions, the shop’s specialty spices, adorable home accents, and comfy, casual clothes are available every day. The store also has great gift items that will add creative flair to any room, such as a citrusy, spicy candle infused with the scents of pineapple and cilantro ($14) or eco-friendly canvas totes with silkscreened drawings of owls and elephants. I fell in love with a set of salt and pepper shakers shaped like owls ($26 for the pair) which would make great hostess gifts for a dinner party.

If you’re in the market for crocheted cushions or other knit knick-knacks, look no further than Renegade Handmade (1924 West Division Street). This diverse DIY emporium started out as an offshoot of the Renegade Craft Fair, an annual Wicker Park event since 2003. Today, the shop stocks a wide selection of playful housewares, jewelry, posters, prints, plush items, clothing, and stationery made by more than 300 Chicagoland artists. My favorite items are the witty wall décor, like a hand-sewn deer bust mounted on a wooden plaque ($90), a tongue-in-cheek homage to outdoor living. Anyone who is afraid of the dark will sleep easy with the fused-glass nightlights embellished with sketches of animals ($40). Cute canvas pouches ($16 each) with silkscreened birdcages, hedgehogs, and bicycles are whimsical alternatives to a wallet. Because they are sold on consignment, these sweet, sassy items are a little on the pricey side, but I’m happy to help support Chicago crafters and score some one-of-a-kind creations.

Next door is Coco Rouge (1940 West Division Street), a chic café that puts the haute in hot chocolate. Classic cocoa gets a twist when it’s paired with flavors like pistachio, almond, or chili pepper ($4–$5). The gourmet drinks cost the same amount as the ho-hum hot chocolate at Starbucks but offer much more deliciousness for the dollar, and the ambiance is incomparable. The place serves up creative confections in an elegant industrial space accentuated by exposed brick walls, visible wooden ceiling beams, silver chandeliers, and red light fixtures that are reminiscent of Dan Flavin’s installations. This seductive café is a wonderful place to relax and refuel during a day of serious shopping, and the creative, unconventional interior design is a reminder of the fun of shucking tradition of decorating your space with things that you love.

If you’re in the mood to get crafty yourself, stop by Beadniks (1937 West Division Street) to create your own unique piece of jewelry. From teeny seed beads to big baubles and stone Buddha charms, Beadniks has it all. Browse the huge selection and take your choices to one of the tables, where the helpful staff can offer some nimble fingers and help you finish your piece. This shop isn’t your mom’s craft store, but more like a hip boutique, complete with East-meets-West furnishings and trendy tunes. If your creative juices aren’t flowing, browse the selection of pre-made earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.

Wicker Park is a wonderland for fanciful, quirky items that can make your space and closet feel fun and unique. My new owl salt and pepper shakers add a lot of personality to my stark Ikea kitchen table, and my new bracelets—a joint beading effort with my mom—reflect things and people that I care about. I want the place I live and the things I wear to be special and meaningful, and the offbeat Wicker Park boutiques help my surroundings feel more like me.

"Adventures in Belmont " (02/10/09)

Lined with stores like Burberry, MaxMara, and Coach, the stylish stretch of Michigan Avenue known as the Magnificent Mile attracts hordes of shoppers with deep pockets and huge closets. I, for one, can’t afford the drool-worthy coats that beckon from the Burberry window displays. For clothes and accessories I can buy without having to live on ramen, I leave the Mag Mile behind and catch the Red Line to Belmont. The neighborhood is full of funky resale shops and stylish specialty stores perfect for outfitting the student set.

Fiesty fashionistas will flock to fierce clothing and accessories at The Alley (3228 North Clark Street). With the catchphrase, “Subversive since 1971,” it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the boutique is known for its array of leather goods and sky-high spiky heels. My rocker little brother loves The Alley’s collection of Zippo lighters and huge belt buckles. If the eardrum-bursting music is too loud for you, check out one of The Alley’s other shops lining the street.

The Alley is not just one store, but a retail conglomerate that owns many of the boutiques around the intersection of Clark and Belmont. The Alley Stores include kinky adult emporium Taboo Tabou (854 West Belmont Avenue), hipster paradise Jive Monkey (3224 North Clark Street), Blue Havana smoke shop (852 West Belmont Avenue), boho-chic Architectural Revolution (3226 North Clark Street), and trendy Tragically Hip (914 West Belmont Avenue). I am a frequent shopper at Architectural Revolution. While I sometimes get a headache from the commercialized “exotic” touches like Hindu and Buddhist prayer flags and incense, I love the selection of knit gloves and cozy Mukluk slipper boots, as well as the delicate earrings and unique décor. The store’s tribal fetish aside, it’s a great place to shop for papyrus journals or adorable winter outerwear.

Ragstock (812 West Belmont Avenue) is essentially a two-story warehouse for everything pre-worn. Around Halloween, the store is a dream come true. Partygoers stampede to the massive vintage and resale shop for its stock of kitschy clothes like old school prom dresses, aprons, and fringed leather vests. In the off-season, Ragstock is a one-stop shop for people looking to dress for costume parties or trying to find a creative and dirt-cheap addition to their wardrobe. The store’s enormous inventory makes it a little claustrophobic, and with racks of clothes everywhere, it sometimes requires a bit of digging to strike sartorial gold. I love the massive array of kimonos, which are a stylish alternative to the tired terry cloth bathrobe. Ragstock carries vintage day dresses from every decade. I used a 1960s shift dress I found there as inspiration for the collection I designed for last year’s MODA show. With prices starting at just $2, Ragstock is a year-round bargain destination.

Belmont also caters to bibliophiles. Check out Chicago Comics (3244 North Clark Street) to browse the huge selection of Manga, small press, and indie titles. Of course the store stocks standard Marvel comics, but it also carries an eclectic book collection including compilations of Popeye comics from the late 1920s and a book I added to my reading list: “Frightful Fairy Tales.” It’s a collection of romantic fairy tales accompanied by the Victorian-inspired drawings of famed comic illustrator Dame Darcy.

If you’re looking to dress to impress on the party circuit, stop by Fashion Tomato (937 West Belmont Avenue), the sartorial love child of Charlotte Russe and Bebe. Once in a while, you’ll find classy day wear in the boutique—I swooned over a damask brocade trench coat last spring—but generally, the shop caters to a crowd looking for sassy party clothes. The shop carries trendy party dresses and tops of questionable quality. Though the clothes aren’t built to last, they’re priced accordingly. This shop is a great alternative to Forever 21, an emporium for all poorly-made-but-adorable things tight, short, and disposable. A word of caution: there is no return policy for dresses, so try before you buy.

There may come a time when I have the budget to splurge on clothes at Burberry. Until then, I’ll happily browse and buy in Belmont. Michigan Avenue’s Magnificent Mile may be a mecca for high-end retail, but when it comes to scoring good deals on cool, quirky clothes and accessories, Belmont is pretty magnificent, too.

"Dress Up Your Address" (02/03/09)

I never appreciated how great I had it in the dorms until I had a space of my own. I spent my first year living in a double in Hitchcock, and despite grimy carpets and the occasional mouse in the shower, I had an adorable, well furnished room. With desks, dressers, bookshelves, beds, armchairs, and a fireplace, my room was cramped but cozy. The biggest problem was trying to find enough storage.

Later I moved into an apartment and faced a problem I never encountered in the dorms: What to do with all the space? Since my room in Hitchcock was pre-furnished, I had no furniture of my own for my new place. I decorated my dorm with posters duct-taped to the wall, but I felt that this wasn’t decor befitting a more mature space. I wanted to have an age-appropriate apartment—one that was classy but casual. I was totally clueless about how to create a functional and fashionable living area. Though my obsession with interior design meant I had lots of ideas about decorating, I worried that my tiny budget would make outfitting my apartment impossible. Right after signing my lease, I felt panicked instead of ecstatic. I wondered, Now What?

Furniture was the first problem. My roommate and I like to have friends over for movie and video game marathons, so comfy and copious seating was our first priority. We wanted to make an enclave of couches surrounding a TV, but our modest paychecks meant that retail stores were out of the question. Instead we found great deals on marketplace.uchicago.edu, a Craigslist-esque website just for the U of C community. In addition to a huge corduroy couch for $75, we scored a monster TV that was ours for only $70. Our purchases needed a little renovation—we went through many lint-rollers before our couch was fully free of cat hair—but buying from Marketplace allowed us to purchase furniture we never would have been able to afford otherwise.

Another thing I learned is that a coat of paint can make a dramatic difference in a space. I painted my bedroom a husky gray, and the muted silver tones added substance to the airy room without overpowering it. If your apartment is less-than-spacious, you can use paint to differentiate areas in multi-purpose rooms. My roommate and I have a combination living room/dining room, so we painted the dining room a light green, which echoes to the decorations in our living room but creates a distinct separation.

I felt that moving into an apartment meant that it was time to retire the posters and get some “big girl” decorations. I took the DIY route and got creative with room decor by expanding my notions of what could be mounted on a wall. I picked out some sheets of wrapping paper from Kate’s Paperie and mounted them in Ikea frames that I had painted burnt gold. One sheet of paper has beautiful flora and fauna motifs, and the other looks like a collage of vintage postcards. Each frame and sheet of wrapping paper was only $4, and for less than $20, I adorned my walls with pretty, dainty decorations that are much more sophisticated than my old posters.

You can also take a thrifty approach to decorating by recycling your glass bottles and creating easy table centerpieces. Wine bottles and Martinelli apple juice jars can be used as adorable vases for fresh flowers. The aesthetic is vintage-y, and since you’re using things you already own, the cost is minimal.

Next, I added pizzazz to plain surfaces with decoupage. I used Modge Podge glue to affix pages from vintage magazines to my boring white desk and chair. Any printed materials suitable for cutting and pasting, such as postcards, newspaper clippings, or pages from books, will work too. One of my friends used antique bird books to create a beautiful and unique desktop, and old medical textbooks would be quirky additions to a Spartan surface.

When confronted with the problem of where to put my stuff, I learned to make my decor do double-duty as storage. My two bookshelves did not come close to housing my massive book collection, so I used the books that didn’t fit to adorn my apartment. My collection of oversized artists’ monographs make great coffee table decorations, and I placed novels along the windowsill in the dining room to make the space feel cozy and plug the draft from under the window.

Though looking in my near-empty cupboards sometimes makes me wish I still had a Bartlett meal plan, I’m happy to be in a space of my own. While it’s daunting to face furnishing and decorating an apartment on almost no income, it is possible to make an empty space feel comfortable without spending a lot of cash. With creativity and a DIY–attitude, any budget-conscious student can live in style.

"Adventures: Andersonville" (01/27/09)

Most of us at the U of C have a deep and enduring passion for learning. Perhaps this is why some people become so wrapped up in the Life of the Mind that they neglect other aspects of their lives. Though scholarship should be our priority, we should also make time to take advantage of the amazing opportunities beyond the walls of the library. While it’s tempting to camp in a Reg cubicle until the beginning of spring quarter, beat the winter blahs by bundling up, braving the blustery winds, and getting off campus and into the city.

Although it is kind of a trek, trendy Andersonville is worth the trip. Take the #55 bus to the Garfield Red Line station and ride to the Berwyn stop. Before you balk at waiting on the platforms, remember that the elevated stops are outfitted with heat lamps. Walk down Berwyn to Clark Street and get ready to stuff your face, your closet, and your bookshelf without emptying your wallet.

Fuel up for a day of shopping with a savory crepe at Icosium Kafe (5200 North Clark Street). The food at this charming Moroccan restaurant is both beautiful and bountiful. Start your meal off with the mint tea and honey, served in a lovely silver teapot, or the monster-sized and succulent dulce de leche. All crepes come with a side of soup, so be sure to opt for the delicious vegetable puree with hints of yellow squash and carrots. For the main dish, choose from a sweet confection like the Crepe Aziz (fresh strawberries, kiwi, and dark chocolate or nutella), or a savory dish like the Cheka Chouka crepe (roasted bell peppers, arugula, goat cheese, carmelized onions, Roma tomatoes, pine nuts, roasted garlic, and baby spinach). If you don’t find a crepe on the menu to salivate over, you can make a custom one. Unlike many crepes, these thin pancakes aren’t sickly sweet, but light and porous. The decor is amazing—beaded chandeliers and fresh flowers adorn each table—and the service is great; our waitress let us sit and chat at the table long after we finished our meal and didn’t bring us the check until we asked for it. Expect to spend about $10 a person for food and drinks.

If you’re not in the mood for crepes, feed on some fabulous falafel at Taste of Lebanon (1509 West Foster Avenue). Gorge on massive portions of schwarma, lentil soup, and falafel wraps piled high with tomatoes and tahini. Cheap eats are a dime a dozen in Chicago, but these prices are almost ridiculous. A meal of pita, soup, and sandwich will run you only six dollars. Be sure to plan ahead though: Taste of Lebanon is cash-only and closed on Sundays.

Those of you who can never get enough cheap, chunky accessories will want to raid the kitschy costume jewelry selection at Presence (5216 North Clark Street). I scored a headband with delicate felt flowers, a simple gold ring with a single amber stone, and a whimsical necklace with shreds of pastel shells. Frugal fashionistas will also want to scour the handbag selection. I found a chic faux-snakeskin clutch for $14. The cocktail dresses are perfect for a last-minute party ensemble—you can look like a million bucks for less than $40. A zebra-print dress with kimono sleeves might be inappropriate for Sosc class but would be a cute look for a night on the town.

Bibliophiles should make a stop at Women and Children First Bookstore (5233 North Clark Street), a great place to shop for feminist classics and provocative new releases in queer literature. If your bookshelves are already overflowing, peruse the gift section, which includes snarky, politically charged satirical pieces and alternative menstrual products. The bookstore also hosts feminist-friendly readings and gatherings such as the upcoming Lesbian Poetry Celebration on February 15. Check their website (womenandchildrenfirst.com) for a full list of events.

On your way back to the El, grab a tasty bite to go at the Pasticceria Natalina (5406 North Clark). This elegant-but-affordable Sicilian bakery offers pastries, cannolis, marzipan fruits, and deliciously rich dark chocolate. When the weather gets warmer, remember to cool down with some homemade gelato.

As college students, though we strive to sustain the Life of the Mind, we should also remember to get a life outside of the classroom. There’s too much to do in the whole city to have the South Loop be the northern extent of our Chicago adventures. Just for a few hours, leave Foucault in your Reg locker, get on the El, and get exploring!

"Nail That Interview! Fashion Do's and Don'ts for Landing the Gig" (01/13/09)

The start of winter quarter means it’s time to break out the long underwear, waterproof your favorite boots, and head back to the library to wait for the thaw. In case you’re not already nostalgic for summers past, remember that in addition to Kuviasungnerk/Kangeiko and Midwinter Blues, winter quarter is also time for another U of C tradition: the frantic scramble for the summer internship.

At best, the summer internship, a no-brainer for many undergraduate students, is a modestly paid opportunity to dip your toes into the deep end of the employment pool, network with interesting people, maybe live in a new city, and, if you’re a writer, score some clips for your portfolio. At worst, it’s a glorified type of indentured servitude with an occasional stipend of cold coffee and yesterday’s newspaper.

Parents, teachers, and counselors justify the unpaid internship by saying it is a character-building stepping-stone to a prestigious job in publishing, academia, or museum work. Eating stale ramen in a windowless, $1,300 per month apartment does perhaps build scharacter, and in many fields, a summer of relentless projects and relative poverty is essentially a prerequisite for later full-time employment. In this uncertain economic time, establishing working relationships with industry professionals is more important than ever.

It’s an intern-eat-intern world out there, so how can you set yourself apart from the militant and highly-qualified pack during an interview? Once you’ve proofread your résumé, firmed up your handshake, and compiled a list of thoughtful questions to ask, the real work begins. With an interview, you’ve got about 20 minutes to convince a suspicious employer that you, a college student most comfortable in a uniform of sweatshirts and pajama pants, are ready for the big leagues.

One of my former bosses told me that while a good interview can compensate for a less-than-stellar résumé, a poor impression could eliminate a competitor with near-perfect grades and impressive extracurriculars. The trick is presenting yourself as calm, competent, and confident, which is easier said than done when various professions have different dress codes.

As my dad says, you should dress like you belong at the organization in order to make it easier for the interviewers to better envision you as a future member of the team. This doesn’t necessarily mean busting out the business casual. When I showed up at my first interview for a stylish women’s fashion and lifestyle magazine wearing a prim and proper pinstripe skirt suit, my ensemble revealed my self-consciousness and lack of real knowledge about the publication. So when it comes to interviews, how do you know where to wear what?

For my interviews at magazines, museums, and art galleries, I bucked business casual in favor of stylish and sophisticated ensembles that closer resembled the outfits worn by the editors and curators that I’ve met. I try to wear things that are polished and professional while still emphasizing aesthetics and creativity. My go-to interview outfit is a gray, knee-length, v-cut wool dress from Banana Republic with figure-flattering darts below the bust line and a well-defined waist. I top the dress with a cropped Gap jacket with three-quarter-length sleeves. Accessories take these staples from timeless to trendy. I always wear my favorite charm necklace and faux-pearl earrings. This winter, I will pay homage to the jewel-tone trend by pairing the outfit with my opaque amethyst tights.

Adrienne Schmoeker, a fourth-year public policy major with an econ concentration, just accepted a full-time offer to be a business analyst at Sears. To dress for corporate success, she says she always wears a gray pantsuit, teal button-up shirt, and black heels to interviews.

“[Dressing professionally] shows that you respect the occasion and whoever you will be speaking with,” Schmoeker says. She suggests that applicants for corporate jobs like hers should err on the side of conservatism. “Always over-dress,” she says. “It won’t hurt.” What works in Schmoeker’s field wouldn’t work in mine, and vice versa. Once you know what professionals in your field wear, you’ll be able to dress and conquer.

Many students apply for out-of-state internships, and our busy schedules and meager savings accounts often make it impossible to interview face-to-face. While it may be tempting to conduct phone interviews sprawled out on your bed in your grubbiest, comfiest sweats, this is a dangerous plan. Worst case scenario: You fall asleep on the phone. More likely you will sound a little tired or lackadaisical, not like the frenzied, internship-getting machine that you are.

I’ve had good experiences with phone interviews that I treated like in-person interviews. Make the effort to dress as you would for a face-to-face interview with that organization, and take the phone call in a straight-backed chair to recreate the anxiety-inducing face-to-face interrogation. Though the person on the other end of the line won’t know how great you look, dressing the part may help you sound alert and assured. Your interviewer will be able to appreciate your ensemble once you get the job!

Maybe you’ve decided to skip Kuvia and sleep through this week’s 6 a.m. calisthenics. However, the internship search is one U of C winter tradition you can’t miss. Figure out whether your interview attire should be boho-chic or business casual, and ring in the new year with a new internship. Summer will be here before we know it.