"Spring Fashion Forecast" (03/10/09)

Chicago weather is notoriously unpredictable. It might be sunny one day, and snowing the next. Spring’s fashion forecast is just as polarized: while some looks are fresh, others are better left buried under a foot of snow.

Though it’s not yet time to happily shove winter wear to the back of the closet, spring has almost sprung. Chicago weather is notoriously unpredictable. It might be sunny one day, and snowing the next. This season’s fashion forecast is just as polarized: while some looks are fresh, others are better left buried under a foot of snow. After scouting spring clothes in stores and on the runways, here are my picks for the most trendy and most terrible looks of the season.

Trendy: Cloudy-day Chic

April showers bring May flowers, but that doesn’t mean you want to get caught in the storm. Brighten up a rainy day with some sunny, waterproof accessories. Brooklyn-based design duo Toni Hacker and Benjamin Harnett, the pair behind the Hayden-Harnett line, have teamed up with Target to create a line of affordable handbags and accessories. While I love almost everything by the cult-favorite brand, the delicate parasol from their Target collection is a standout success. The delicate umbrella is shaped almost like a raindrop, and features bright red, yellow, and blue graphics of textured leaves ($22, www.target.com).

You’ll be singing in the rain when you stomp down the street in Hunter’s Royal Horticultural Society rain boots. The British company, known for their wet-weather wares, partnered with the Horticultural Society to make a line of boots emblazoned with botanical drawings. I love the cheery, feminine knee-high boots featuring images of peaches. These shoes almost make me look forward to puddle-filled days ($68, www.zappos.com).

Terrible: Jumpsuits

One-piece looks were all over the spring fashion shows, and while the slinky satin jumpsuits were sleek at Derek Lam, Dries von Noten, and Diane von Furstenburg, these looks don’t look so sophisticated when translated from the runway to the real world. The outlandish disco-queen outfits are both impractical (going to the bathroom has never been such a hassle!) and unflattering when taken from the showroom to the street. On humid days, these clingy looks will look wrinkled and wilted. Best to chalk this style up to artistic imagination and shop elsewhere.

Trendy: Frontier Fashion

Luella and Marc Jacobs were thinking home on the range for spring, outfitting their models in stripes, faded floral prints, and plaid linen sundresses. If you don’t want to dress like a Laura Ingalls Wilder character, steer clear of quilted skirts and fringed suede vests, and opt for more subtle prairie-inspired accessories. Instead of wearing this trend from head to toe, use individual pieces to accent wardrobe staples like jeans and a tee. Gap and Forever 21 carry lightweight checked scarves ($9-$30) that will help you look pretty, instead of like a pioneer.

Terrible: Skeletal Styles

Rodarte and Alexander McQueen brought skeletons out of the closet for spring when they featured skeleton-inspired prints and silhouettes on the runway. McQueen’s silk-blend jacket features a print reminiscent of the spinal cord and vertebrae. McQueen’s leather toe-detail pumps are totally creepy: the beige pumps would be classic and charming, if they didn’t feature five toe-shaped indentations right where the toes lie in the shoe. The result isn’t fashionable, but freaky. At Rodarte, a barely-there bodice featured strips of silk draped in the pattern of a rib cage, including extra-thick strips serving as the sternum and clavicle. Given the fashion industry’s historical fetish for the skeletally-thin, it seems totally tasteless to capitalize on styles that celebrate this anatomy.

The fashion forecast for spring is only partly cloudy. While some of spring’s biggest looks are bleak, others are bright. Stock up on fresh rain gear and flirty frontier florals, and skip fashion flops like jumpsuits and skeleton-inspired styles. Chicago will be overcast and gray for a few more months, so choose clothes that will put some sunshine into spring.

"Cent-Savy Showcase Proves Moda's Mind on the Money" (03/03/09)

The recent Fall 2009 collections presented at New York’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week raised questions about how lavishness can coexist with layoffs. Some people suggested that with the economy in crisis, celebrating outlandish luxury was in poor taste. Though some designers, like James Mischka of design duo Badgley Mischka, continued to prioritize extravagant designs over more economical ensembles, others decided to scale back. Some houses opted to stage static tableaus instead of costlier runway shows, and notorious party boys Marc Jacobs and Zac Posen canceled their fabulous fetes.

Here at the U of C, fashion fiends are struggling with a similar question: How can you celebrate luxury when so many people are struggling to make ends meet? MODA’s fifth annual spring fashion show provides some answers. You can be cheaply chic by using unconventional fabrics, small budgets, and vintage inspirations. The designers whose work will be featured in “Recessionista: A Lesson in Fashion Efficiency” this Friday use their collections to showcase keen social consciousness and an awareness of fashion’s place in today’s world.

The show will feature work by members of MODA’s Designer Boot Camp (DBC), a year-long designing program that helps students take their ideas from sketches to collections. Other student designers and DBC alumni will also present their work, as will professional Chicago-based designers Alice Barry and Annie Novotny of Frei Designs. Student models will strut their stuff in front of scouts from Elite modeling agency. Attendees will get the VIP treatment with appetizers, drinks, goodie bags stuffed with treats from sponsors like LUSH and Teen Vouge, and performances by dance group Rhythmic Bodies in Motion and emerging hip-hop artist Alex Ludovico.

I asked four student designers, now putting the finishing touches on their collections, for some tips about recession-proofing your wardrobe.

Tip 1: Find Inspiration in Unexpected Places

Former student and current designer Michal Lynn Shumate turns grandma’s trash into trendy treasure. Shumate uses discarded domestic items like dust ruffles and doilies to create distinctively retro silhouettes. She believes that recession-friendly clothing should still look like a million bucks. “I think the fact that the dress is made from recycled materials should be secondary. First, it should be a pretty dress,” says Shumate. Her impeccable craftsmanship transforms items that once lay forgotten in a linen closet into elegant accents. Colorful ruffles adding volume to a gingham dress don’t betray their origins as dust ruffles, and lace accenting the bustline on a white frock looks too delicate to have once been part of a tablecloth. Shumate’s beautifully-tailored floral dresses are actually made from pillow cases she picked up at a vintage shop. The result of Shumate’s domestic re-design: It’s haute in the kitchen when domestic textiles go chic.

Tip 2: Rethink Retro

DBC designer Jetty-Jane Connor revamps retro styles, embellishing ’50s-style frocks with funky zippers and other accents that add an androgynous edge to feminine silhouettes. Marc Jacobs shares this aesthetic, but you can get the same look on a dime by adding edgy elements like broaches, zippers, or trim to thrift-store finds. Adding contemporary accents to vintage looks will prevent you from looking stuck in the wrong decade; you’ll look trendy, not out of touch.

Student designer Julian Owens also works with a vintage aesthetic. Owens is fascinated by the costumes worn by early R&B groups like the Supremes. His collection outfits three female “singers” and a male “manager” in glittery getups ready to take center stage. Owens’s bejeweled designs reference the economizing practice of dressing groups in “uniforms.” “It was more cost-effective for bands to dress alike than for everyone to wear a separate outfit,” says Owens. If you’re a performer aching for the spotlight, take a cue from Owens and opt for decorating your own duds instead of splurging on costly costumes.

Tip 3: Opt for Affordable Artistry

DBC designer Jillian Marshall’s collection is more couture than casual—these are not pieces you’d want to wear to class—but her clothes are evidence that beauty doesn’t have to break the bank. Marshall’s pieces are inspired by some of her artistic icons, including composer Piotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and painter Vassily Kandinsky. Marshall also found inspiration in the elegant arabesques found on traditional East Asian dresses such as kimonos. “These clothes were created on an extremely tight budget, which in light of the ‘recessionista’ theme, shows that being artistic doesn’t have to be expensive,” Marshall says. If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind outfit, remember that couture doesn’t have to be costly.

In light of the current fiscal crisis, it’s refreshing to see student designers embracing the notion that fashion and frivolity don’t go hand in hand. Shumate, Connor, Owens, Marshall, and their fellow designers show that fashion doesn’t have to recede along with the economy. Despite Posen and Jacobs’s canceled festivities, when it comes to creative, affordable fashion, the party is far from over.

"Style Stars" (02/24/09)

Though the Academy Awards are touted as an opportunity to celebrate the year’s most extraordinary achievements in film, the ceremony is also an opportunity to nominate actors, directors, and the odd sound technician for the category of Best Performance in Red Carpet Couture. While some starlets showed up at the fete dressed to impress, others faltered in their fashion choices, choosing gaudy get-ups over glamorous gowns. Fellow fashionista Nathalie Gorman helped me choose the sartorial winners and losers on the red carpet.

DO: Keep it classy

The ever-beautiful Diane Lane set the standard for Oscars elegance Sunday night. Lane attended the ceremony with her husband, Josh Brolin, nominated in the Best Supporting Actor category for his performance in Milk. Though she wasn’t nominated for an award, Lane looked like a winner in an expertly-tailored Dolce & Gabbana gown. While her sweetheart-necked black tulle ensemble is not the flashiest getup, it is a no-fail red carpet outfit. Lane’s sophisticated, tousled updo and minimal diamond accessories elegantly complemented her simple silhouette. The result is timeless red-carpet glamour.

DO: Dress like Oscar

Many starlets, including funny girl Tina Fey and first-time nominee Anne Hathaway, channeled the little guy with body-hugging metallics. Fey looked radiant in an iridescent cap-sleeved, V-necked dress with copper-colored paillettes and a mermaid train. Although she didn’t take home a golden statue this year, Anne Hathaway looked statuesque herself in a sequined, white Armani Privé fishtail dress.

DON’T: Wear the carpet

How can you pose for your adoring public and paparazzi if your dress is indistinguishable from the red carpet? It’s hard to rock the rug when it looks like you’re wearing it. Virginia Madsen, formerly nominated for her performance in Sideways, went wrong when she chose a belted, strapless number in the same crimson shade as the carpet. While the geometric, architectural structure of the dress was a welcome change from a sea of gauzy pastels, the dress would have been more ravishing in a hue that wasn’t camouflaged against the carpet.

While patterns can be elegant and exciting on the red carpet, stylish stars should steer clear of dresses that look like upholstery. Though she later stripped down to a red sequined leotard for her show-stopping musical performance, songstress Beyoncé Knowles walked the carpet in a gaudy black-and-gold floral number that was better suited for a loveseat than a star-studded event. The garish pattern, reminiscent of a tacky couch cover or wallpaper, should never have left the house.

DO: Load up on layers

The red carpet was so full of women wearing varying shades of cream and ecru, you’d almost swear it was a mass wedding. But, among the many swans (no, Björk was not there), Marisa Tomei, in a Versace dress with a massive pleated skirt and train, stood out from the flock. The dress rose from the ground in a series of thick, complex, interlocking folds layered on top of one another, to a simple satin bodice with a soft, delicate one-shouldered neckline. The lightness of the dress’s top, combined with Tomei’s wavy up-do, set off the heavy, sharp skirt.

Less modern but more subtly original was Taraji P. Henson’s beautiful cream-colored Roberto Cavalli gown. From far away, it looked as if it were entirely made of taffeta. The close-up revealed layers of different fabrics, each a slightly different shade of cream. These layers made the tone of the dress shift subtly under the lights; the ruffled skirt, with all its texture, looked very sophisticated.

Finally, Penelope Cruz’s vintage Balmain dress, made of stiff embroidered fabric and soft shirred chiffon, was spectacular. Paired with a strand of diamonds strung like pearls, the dress made Cruz look like a fairy-tale princess—an appropriate choice for the night her Oscar fairy tale came true.

DON’T: Look like Barbie

Once upon a time, many of the women who showed up on the red carpet last night probably dressed up their Barbies in shiny dresses for an imaginary Oscar night. Unfortunately, a few of the actresses walking the red carpet seemed not to realize that the clothes in which they once dressed their dolls were not ideal evening attire for themselves as well.

Viola Davis’s gown was completely flattering to her figure, but the color and fabric made it look tacky. She is genuinely beautiful and talented; it’s a shame she showed up in a dress that really made her look like a little girl playing dress-up. Speaking of which, Miley Cyrus showed up looking like a ridiculous snowflake, in a jewel-encrusted dress cinched at the waist by a belt that looked so plastic it might have come right off the assembly line at Mattel. If Davis and Cyrus had wanted to do something colorful and sparkly, they should have taken a cue from Amy Adams, whose bright red Carolina Herrera gown and enormous multicolored necklace by Fred Leighton were both adventurous and genuinely grown-up.

Whether you’re looking to dress for the red carpet or just for a night on the town, take some style suggestions from the style winners and losers at the Academy Awards. Leave your dolls and tacky upholstery at home, and slip into something intricate, classic, and figure-flattering. Tim Gunn may not be around to swoon over your ensemble, but you’ll still join the ranks of the style stars.

"Weave Through Wicker Park for Winning Wares" (02/17/09)

As much as I love mega home-décor chains like IKEA and Crate and Barrel, there’s something to be said for decorating your place with unique items that feel more distinctly personal. Though you often can’t beat chain-store prices, their mass-produced items tend to feel sterile and ordinary. Likewise, though I like accessories from stores like Forever 21, I wish I could personalize the baubles and charms that go on my bracelets and necklaces to reflect certain things that mean something to me. With this in mind, I traveled to Wicker Park to find some one-of-a-kind, whimsical items to add some warmth and personality to my space and wardrobe.

When I stopped by the eclectic Elevenzees boutique (1901 West Division Street) on Valentine’s Day, I was greeted with a slice of cake and a glass of champagne. Though this celeb treatment might be reserved for special occasions, the shop’s specialty spices, adorable home accents, and comfy, casual clothes are available every day. The store also has great gift items that will add creative flair to any room, such as a citrusy, spicy candle infused with the scents of pineapple and cilantro ($14) or eco-friendly canvas totes with silkscreened drawings of owls and elephants. I fell in love with a set of salt and pepper shakers shaped like owls ($26 for the pair) which would make great hostess gifts for a dinner party.

If you’re in the market for crocheted cushions or other knit knick-knacks, look no further than Renegade Handmade (1924 West Division Street). This diverse DIY emporium started out as an offshoot of the Renegade Craft Fair, an annual Wicker Park event since 2003. Today, the shop stocks a wide selection of playful housewares, jewelry, posters, prints, plush items, clothing, and stationery made by more than 300 Chicagoland artists. My favorite items are the witty wall décor, like a hand-sewn deer bust mounted on a wooden plaque ($90), a tongue-in-cheek homage to outdoor living. Anyone who is afraid of the dark will sleep easy with the fused-glass nightlights embellished with sketches of animals ($40). Cute canvas pouches ($16 each) with silkscreened birdcages, hedgehogs, and bicycles are whimsical alternatives to a wallet. Because they are sold on consignment, these sweet, sassy items are a little on the pricey side, but I’m happy to help support Chicago crafters and score some one-of-a-kind creations.

Next door is Coco Rouge (1940 West Division Street), a chic café that puts the haute in hot chocolate. Classic cocoa gets a twist when it’s paired with flavors like pistachio, almond, or chili pepper ($4–$5). The gourmet drinks cost the same amount as the ho-hum hot chocolate at Starbucks but offer much more deliciousness for the dollar, and the ambiance is incomparable. The place serves up creative confections in an elegant industrial space accentuated by exposed brick walls, visible wooden ceiling beams, silver chandeliers, and red light fixtures that are reminiscent of Dan Flavin’s installations. This seductive café is a wonderful place to relax and refuel during a day of serious shopping, and the creative, unconventional interior design is a reminder of the fun of shucking tradition of decorating your space with things that you love.

If you’re in the mood to get crafty yourself, stop by Beadniks (1937 West Division Street) to create your own unique piece of jewelry. From teeny seed beads to big baubles and stone Buddha charms, Beadniks has it all. Browse the huge selection and take your choices to one of the tables, where the helpful staff can offer some nimble fingers and help you finish your piece. This shop isn’t your mom’s craft store, but more like a hip boutique, complete with East-meets-West furnishings and trendy tunes. If your creative juices aren’t flowing, browse the selection of pre-made earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.

Wicker Park is a wonderland for fanciful, quirky items that can make your space and closet feel fun and unique. My new owl salt and pepper shakers add a lot of personality to my stark Ikea kitchen table, and my new bracelets—a joint beading effort with my mom—reflect things and people that I care about. I want the place I live and the things I wear to be special and meaningful, and the offbeat Wicker Park boutiques help my surroundings feel more like me.

"Adventures in Belmont " (02/10/09)

Lined with stores like Burberry, MaxMara, and Coach, the stylish stretch of Michigan Avenue known as the Magnificent Mile attracts hordes of shoppers with deep pockets and huge closets. I, for one, can’t afford the drool-worthy coats that beckon from the Burberry window displays. For clothes and accessories I can buy without having to live on ramen, I leave the Mag Mile behind and catch the Red Line to Belmont. The neighborhood is full of funky resale shops and stylish specialty stores perfect for outfitting the student set.

Fiesty fashionistas will flock to fierce clothing and accessories at The Alley (3228 North Clark Street). With the catchphrase, “Subversive since 1971,” it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the boutique is known for its array of leather goods and sky-high spiky heels. My rocker little brother loves The Alley’s collection of Zippo lighters and huge belt buckles. If the eardrum-bursting music is too loud for you, check out one of The Alley’s other shops lining the street.

The Alley is not just one store, but a retail conglomerate that owns many of the boutiques around the intersection of Clark and Belmont. The Alley Stores include kinky adult emporium Taboo Tabou (854 West Belmont Avenue), hipster paradise Jive Monkey (3224 North Clark Street), Blue Havana smoke shop (852 West Belmont Avenue), boho-chic Architectural Revolution (3226 North Clark Street), and trendy Tragically Hip (914 West Belmont Avenue). I am a frequent shopper at Architectural Revolution. While I sometimes get a headache from the commercialized “exotic” touches like Hindu and Buddhist prayer flags and incense, I love the selection of knit gloves and cozy Mukluk slipper boots, as well as the delicate earrings and unique décor. The store’s tribal fetish aside, it’s a great place to shop for papyrus journals or adorable winter outerwear.

Ragstock (812 West Belmont Avenue) is essentially a two-story warehouse for everything pre-worn. Around Halloween, the store is a dream come true. Partygoers stampede to the massive vintage and resale shop for its stock of kitschy clothes like old school prom dresses, aprons, and fringed leather vests. In the off-season, Ragstock is a one-stop shop for people looking to dress for costume parties or trying to find a creative and dirt-cheap addition to their wardrobe. The store’s enormous inventory makes it a little claustrophobic, and with racks of clothes everywhere, it sometimes requires a bit of digging to strike sartorial gold. I love the massive array of kimonos, which are a stylish alternative to the tired terry cloth bathrobe. Ragstock carries vintage day dresses from every decade. I used a 1960s shift dress I found there as inspiration for the collection I designed for last year’s MODA show. With prices starting at just $2, Ragstock is a year-round bargain destination.

Belmont also caters to bibliophiles. Check out Chicago Comics (3244 North Clark Street) to browse the huge selection of Manga, small press, and indie titles. Of course the store stocks standard Marvel comics, but it also carries an eclectic book collection including compilations of Popeye comics from the late 1920s and a book I added to my reading list: “Frightful Fairy Tales.” It’s a collection of romantic fairy tales accompanied by the Victorian-inspired drawings of famed comic illustrator Dame Darcy.

If you’re looking to dress to impress on the party circuit, stop by Fashion Tomato (937 West Belmont Avenue), the sartorial love child of Charlotte Russe and Bebe. Once in a while, you’ll find classy day wear in the boutique—I swooned over a damask brocade trench coat last spring—but generally, the shop caters to a crowd looking for sassy party clothes. The shop carries trendy party dresses and tops of questionable quality. Though the clothes aren’t built to last, they’re priced accordingly. This shop is a great alternative to Forever 21, an emporium for all poorly-made-but-adorable things tight, short, and disposable. A word of caution: there is no return policy for dresses, so try before you buy.

There may come a time when I have the budget to splurge on clothes at Burberry. Until then, I’ll happily browse and buy in Belmont. Michigan Avenue’s Magnificent Mile may be a mecca for high-end retail, but when it comes to scoring good deals on cool, quirky clothes and accessories, Belmont is pretty magnificent, too.